New Zealand

We wanted to helicopter up to Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers but it was too cloudy and the trip was cancelled, so we only saw them from the ground, which was still really cool. In spite of bad weather for helicopters and certain views, the trip in off season was worthwhile for the non-crowds and the freedom to adjust one’s itinerary without being tied to reservations. It was easy enough to show up and find rooms, including on the boats on Milford and Doubtful Sounds.

Doubtful Sound is neither doubtful nor a sound. Captain James Cook called it Doubtful Harbour, and didn’t sail in, because he was doubtful he’d be able to return to sea if he did. Its last name was changed to match the other sounds in the region. Like Milford Sound, it’s actually a fiord. You may be wondering what that means.

It was uncomfortably cold on the ferry to Doubtful Sound and, much of the time, on the boat in Doubtful Sound, but it was so beautiful that I just couldn’t bring myself to go back inside. Not a second of the trip to or through DS was plain. We were also blessed with two of DS’s on average 50 sunny days a year; an average 200 see a lot of rain and another 100 or so clouds. Taking the cruise through the Sound, which included kayaking in DS and watching the sun set and then rise over the Tasman Sea, epitomized the MasterCard definition of “priceless,” (albeit paid for with a visa that offered a much lower international transaction charge, and even discounted for off season, causing sticker shock).

Milford Sound was equally worth it, although different. Even the longer car ride from civilization (DS would be a longer boat ride) was worth it for the views along the way, which included The Chasm, a gorgeous, 22 meter-deep waterfall where you can see beautiful, smooth rocks and the crystal-clear water that cut them. The Chasm is over the Cleddau River, which flows into Milford Sound and is named after a river in Wales.

Another view, just before the Homer Tunnel, took some hiking to, and as we were coming down, I noticed people looking at our rental car. Having lived in DC, I instinctively thought someone had broken into it and then realized where I was. Nonetheless, I was concerned and hurried down. It turned out they were staring at a kea, dubbed the nature guide on the DS cruise as “nature’s juvenile delinquent.” Vandalism is their hobby, and this particular kea had taken in interest in chewing the weather stripping on the car. The Milford Sound nature guide told us it’s not instinctive—the parents teach their offspring to destroy property.

From Milford Sound you see Mitre Peak and over fifty waterfalls, including the one I photographed most, Stirling Falls, which is twice the height of Niagara. We were also very lucky to see dolphins, which enjoyed surfing off the bow of our boat for quite a while. It was very cool to see them swim and play.

At night the stars came in beautifully, although the indent star of the Southern Cross was harder to see. That one apparently likes to hide.

After the fiords we went up to Mt. Cook, also a beautiful drive, especially by Lake Pukaki, which gets its turquoise color from glacier silt. There’s a more complicated, impressive geological explanation but I don’t remember it. There’s a similar explanation for why the top of Tasman Glacier is ugly—something about its collecting debris. Anyway, it was beautiful, but we only saw Mt. Cook in evening light. By the time we hiked past the glacier lake and to Lake Hudson, the mountains were covered by clouds. I’d really wanted to go glacier kayaking but it was too late in the season. Lake Tekapo was similarly beautiful but similarly cloudy, so we returned to Christchurch early. It’s actually a fun city when things are open (i.e. not on ANZAC Day, which was marked by the city’s surprisingly significant Goth population ambling through its streets).

I’d definitely like to go back, see the North Island and more of the South Island, but this was a great starter trip.