tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-60588221680211820482024-03-14T06:32:19.099-04:00Clinging to My SanityI've retired the mom blog (mom's historic warm, fuzzy affirmations are still available in the archives (posts labeled 'mom blog' and, for the best of those, 'classic')). I enjoyed the years of fat talk and running commentary on my hair and personality as much as you did, but mom moved on and so must the blog.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.comBlogger4329125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-6658891806283190582019-10-14T19:48:00.003-04:002019-10-14T19:48:59.824-04:00Azores: Sao Miguel<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Sao Miguel was last on our itinerary, but it was also inadvertently first on mine. When I wasn't allowed to board the connecting flight to Flores, I walked to Ponta Delgada. These greeted me as I neared town.</div>
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I popped into the tourist info center and then Vodafone, and then I went to the botanical garden.<br />
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I climbed up one clock tower and found a view of another.<br />
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Then I went to the military museum.<br />
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Before heading back to the airport to proceed to Flores. I was in a bad mood (I would have liked to spend the day in Flores, although it rained all day there, it turned out). I was hungry, and the restaurant in the airport for which Sata gave me a voucher had only a salad among its vegetarian offerings. I was still checking work email, and I received one that made me angry (as I did when I was in Romania), at which point I was determined to check only to delete superfluous messages and not to have to react to anything.<br />
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Anyway, a week later, we were back on Sao Miguel. We got our car--which we'd opted to rent because it was so inexpensive that it would be practically worth it even if it sat most of the time, and which turned out to be the apparently <a href="https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1AVNE_enUS666US686&sxsrf=ACYBGNS1F5vWrCHAy5DwueHSUz49RxtImg%3A1571093701800&ei=xfykXdrCMJHt5gKGkqTADw&q=fiat+500+basic+bitch&oq=fiat+500+basic+bitch&gs_l=psy-ab.3...8977.11324..11522...2.2..0.131.879.2j6......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0j0i67j0i22i30j33i22i29i30.pSocOqZH_VU&ved=0ahUKEwiauYSQ7JzlAhWRtlkKHQYJCfgQ4dUDCAs&uact=5">epitome-of-basic</a> Fiat 500. I didn't remember whether I'd ever been in a convertible and couldn't wait to get our bandanas out so we could ride 'topless,' but Kiera insisted that she have a chance to figure out how the gears worked and what not before 'shit starts flying in our faces.' So I directed her to a parking lot near our hostel, and then directed us to said hostel. Later, we'd know we were close when we saw the plaques for the nearby strip clubs.<br />
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Our hosts were adorable and super helpful. They explained that we shouldn't make any plans until the forecast is in, at which point they'd tell us which parts of the island are literally visible. The next day the weather wasn't great, so K opted to work and I caught a ride with a mainland-Portuguese couple staying at the same place. They were heading to Furnas, and dropped me in Villa Franca. I walked up the very big hill to the church, but the fog didn't clear in time for me to get a view of the surroundings.<br />
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I got drenched on the way down (I was wearing raingear), but I stumbled upon the marina just in time to catch a speedboat to the island. And on that speedboat, I got super-drenched by the waves that it generated. I followed the others to the beach part of the inlet, secured my stuff to some rocks, and set about snorkeling.<br />
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I surfaced just in time to catch the boat back an hour later, which was a good thing, because I'd covered all the (ocean) ground there was, and it wasn't pleasant out of the water. When I got to the mainland, I had an hour before the bus back to Ponta Delgada. I was starving (despite tearing through my supply of granola bars). I found a food truck that had a vegetarian crepe on the menu, but the vendor said it would take her an hour to make it and asked if she could interest me in a hot dog. I popped into a market and asked if the pizza and other like offerings were vegetarian and was told that they weren't. At the cafe at the bus station, I ordered a vegetarian sandwich that was essentially a baguette with mayonnaise and (mind you, very fresh) tomatoes.<br />
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I was about to WhatsApp Kiera to let her know I was heading back, but I found my phone unresponsive to touch. The wave had taken it out. It was alive, but couldn't be unlocked. I had no way of getting in touch with anyone, and I didn't particularly know where I was going. From the bus, I saw us pass the street where we'd parked, and got off at the next stop. The hostel was just over a block from there, but which block? Should I veer right or left at the V? I thought I remembered veering right the day before. And there they were: the strip-club plaques across the street a few doors down. I was in the right place. The next challenge was getting in; there was no permanent reception, and I had no way of reaching K, who might well have been asleep. But our balcony door was open, so I serenaded her from the street. That didn't seem to work, so I went back to knocking, in the hope that someone would hear me. But a few minutes later, she did come down, having heard me through the balcony door. All was well, but it was the first reminder in three days about being mindful of your surroundings.<br />
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We went to dinner and explored Ponta Delgada as the sun set.<br />
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The next day, we--together will almost literally everyone else on the island--tried to go to Sete Cidades. It was impassible, so we drove on, to Ponta da Ferraria, and then to Moisteros.<br />
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At Ponta da Ferraira, we took a tip in a thermal hot spot in the ocean.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW4Uk4tIa-NVB8MvUWi8ZNHQjX59ASBpYj9kkAT_tyu7m2IIsWmLMZePTREhhvMqjKKorZiLluk4hPS3eF_xRmeMcyoteVUvFVNhgsgdd1fhDPbLZlqB0NPM3uDt14nI2LIyNF2wdHP5c/s1600/SM-009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW4Uk4tIa-NVB8MvUWi8ZNHQjX59ASBpYj9kkAT_tyu7m2IIsWmLMZePTREhhvMqjKKorZiLluk4hPS3eF_xRmeMcyoteVUvFVNhgsgdd1fhDPbLZlqB0NPM3uDt14nI2LIyNF2wdHP5c/s320/SM-009.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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At Moisteros, we admired more cliffs. I went for a swim in a protected spot, but the protection was no match for the waves, which knocked me away from the ladder I was holding onto. I managed to get my head above water and swim back to the ladder and get out.<br />
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On our way back to Ponta Delgada, we passed through a much more pleasant, emptied out Sete Cidades.<br />
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K and I agreed that our minds weren't blown. I thought it might be beauty saturation, but she thought the reality didn't live up to the hype.<br />
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The next day I again set off on my own, via cab, to Lagoa de Fogo. I got there just in time to get this spectacular view (I heard on my way down to the lake, from people coming up, that the cliffs hadn't been visible 15 minutes earlier; they wouldn't be visible 15 minutes later, either).<br />
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As I wandered around the lake, a fog set in.<br />
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I could see very little.<br />
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In fact, I couldn't find the trailhead 90 minutes later, when I'd come back around. I pre-panicked, but then I saw a couple of people who'd walked the other way find the trailhead, and I followed them up.<br />
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I walked down the road to Caldeira Velha until a nice Italian couple took pity on me and gave me a ride (they were going to the same place). I progressed from coolest (literally and figuratively) hotspring<br />
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to the warmest, where, as I was getting ready to head out, I chatted with an American couple, who offered me a ride to Ribeira Grande (from which I'd take the bus back to Ponta Delgada).<br />
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It was very kind of them. It would've been a longer walk than I thought.<br />
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I once again had an hour to explore town and search fruitlessly for non-granola fare. It was worth it, to get this picture of the cat with zero f*s to give. It could've come straight out of NatGeo.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS822QXJzqiZx-FHx5wpXNSFNj81Tg7Bdbk6_lVJsNjYtpRULC4KbfuFnsBFxhywl5FiXpXPIfut3c4Y2WxWmTsyEjXcpjBtkTVuqFfuiHwXMon8qXWotNTE3wX9Lp8q657oTclUv0cBQ/s1600/20190922_163504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1174" data-original-width="1600" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS822QXJzqiZx-FHx5wpXNSFNj81Tg7Bdbk6_lVJsNjYtpRULC4KbfuFnsBFxhywl5FiXpXPIfut3c4Y2WxWmTsyEjXcpjBtkTVuqFfuiHwXMon8qXWotNTE3wX9Lp8q657oTclUv0cBQ/s320/20190922_163504.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Once again, back to the hostel, except this time I had a key (and I had my non-burner phone--the burner was drying out in a bag of rice--so I could at least find a cafe with WiFi if I had to). However, that phone, though waterproof, can't be charged when the port is wet, so I put it away to conserve battery (I'd need to call my dad on it upon arrival in Boston the next day). K and I grabbed an earlyish dinner and went back to pack. It was bittersweet; we were ready to go, but we weren't.<br />
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The next day, she took off on an earlier flight and I went to a pineapple plantation,<br />
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and then to the beach.<br />
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I lounged and swam, thinking, "this time tomorrow, I'll be at work." That made the beach time that much more enjoyable.<br />
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From there, I headed back to the hostel to pick up my stuff and waited for the bus to the airport. It wasn't much less expensive than a cab, but no cabs went by. Just when I texted our hosts to ask them to call me one, the bus came. I got to the airport *just* in time to check in, recover my lost sunglasses from Customs (because that's how they do it), and board.<br />
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My dad picked me up in Boston and took me back to the airport the next morning. I spoke at an event a couple of days later, and collected my new cats over the weekend. They hid while I processed the pictures. The pictures looked unimpressive and disappointing when I was there, because the actuality of it was so much more beautiful, but now they seem really beautiful to me. It's a magical place.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-10662455840508718442019-10-13T21:57:00.000-04:002019-10-13T21:57:08.193-04:00Azores: Sao JorgeSao Jorge is where our weather mojo really started to run out. As with the other islands, we made a great choice for lodging, and as with Flores, we picked the hotel that housed the best restaurant on the island. Also as with Flores, there was exactly one vegetarian special, but sadly unlike on Flores, they didn't change it up, so it was roasted potatoes with veg every night.<br />
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Our first day was low-key; we needed to recover from the hike. Still, I got a bit antsy. The next day, we headed out for a hike. For the first stretch, we couldn't see a thing.<br />
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Ultimately, it cleared up.</div>
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And we stumbled upon quite the natural swimming hole.<br />
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We got into some cow traffic on the way back. There are many more cows than people on Sao Jorge. It's isolated, but the residents essentially subsistence farm. We saw all kinds of crops in just about every yard we passed.</div>
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The next day, Kiera had to work, so I hired a cab driver to give me a mini-tour of the island.</div>
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We stopped at a very old church, and then at the only coffee plantation in Europe.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where they dry the coffee beans</td></tr>
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Then we saw a bunch of fajas.<br />
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We grabbed a quick lunch near the airport just before our flight to Sao Miguel.<br />
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And said goodbye to Sao Jorge.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-85839317028298762242019-10-13T21:42:00.000-04:002019-10-14T19:51:25.983-04:00Azores: PicoIn <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2019/10/azores-prologue.html">the prologue</a>, I alluded to the weather zone that is the Azores. One doing her research will come upon warnings about allowing time--days, even--between flights in case of cancellations. That's one reason Sao Miguel was the last stop on our trip.We'd allowed a full day between landing on Faial and the last ferry from there to Pico, where we'd have an early start the next morning. If time permitted, we'd go see a couple of sights on Faial. We got there on time, but not quite enough time for a stress-free tour of the island (or even a ride to capelinhos), especially for the price. So we made it to the port--evidently just in time for a ferry we didn't even know was departing--and sailed to Pico.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRbfAu91e-g3-I1RVtocLd7bp6_GkFXhXJjpiod-ulgrCY0hd8H4kp_MexeHQl_yFtgtXWLG_P1DOjQKUl9V6QyGNKRTwwEdoBP3xWSiG94TzqWOahwoyuocmj93wd3yZbqRs11iKgAuI/s1600/P-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRbfAu91e-g3-I1RVtocLd7bp6_GkFXhXJjpiod-ulgrCY0hd8H4kp_MexeHQl_yFtgtXWLG_P1DOjQKUl9V6QyGNKRTwwEdoBP3xWSiG94TzqWOahwoyuocmj93wd3yZbqRs11iKgAuI/s320/P-001.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Goncalo, the extraordinarily helpful owner of our hotel picked us up at the port, drove us past some stunning wine walls, pointed out the supermarket and the natural swimming hole, and showed us to our room. We figured it would be less time to buy groceries than to walk to and from the nearest veg-friendly establishment, so we stocked up and headed back. I also bought a pair of sunglasses--I'd left mine on the flight to Flores and made do with a floppy hat in the meantime. Flores was stunning, but we welcomed being back in civilization.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kiera captured my return from the swimming hole</td></tr>
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I popped into the swimming hole to cool off and helped Kiera make a Thai vegetable salad. They had all kinds of tofu in the local supermarket. We also brought what we thought would be sturdy bread for to make PB&J for the hike the next day. Goncalo came for us not-bright but early--it was still dark--and took us to the trailhead for Mt. Pico to meet our guide. It was chilly and damp, so about right for a strenuous hike.<br />
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We ultimately decided to go with a guide--and were glad we did--because we'd read that when fog covers the mountain, you can't see past your nose, including to the path markers. She was amazing. But she did rush us up the mountain, because weather, and it was very, very tough. The hike can be characterized by segments, as Raisa told us: "natural selection," not because it takes people out but because it weeds out the people who didn't know what they'd signed up for; "a walk in the park," which is exactly what it sounds like, followed by "widow maker," and so on, until you get to Piquinho--the tippy top, formed by the last eruption--where you drop your polls and scramble.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The climb to the top was that steep</td></tr>
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<br />We hiked up in cloud cover, and by the time I thought to hide my camera from the elements, it was too late (and then, it backfired). Kiera thought of military marching cadence to help her along; I resorted to the famous Dr. Seuss lines that have been keeping me going for decades: On you will go, though the weather be foul... though your feet may be sore and your sneakers may leak. I also, occasionally, led myself to an earworm from "The Producers": <i>We can do it! Nothing to it!</i><br />
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Whatever our coping strategies, we did it. There were fumaroles up at the top to warm us as we had lunch with a view, including of Faial. Raisa offered us moonshine--an island staple--to further warm us.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHtUNjFq695wYsf4RIWxF9Gyk_mfUS-tejrin-yplYz3j-du4UD50IwfbvVHy2ssDHVm5Jju8Eza7TEPuCTo05CsoSi1GW0rlktMJmecrH_fiCBewSdgWs1Rj2DjNiPVZpq-8P6u7gWaA/s1600/P-007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHtUNjFq695wYsf4RIWxF9Gyk_mfUS-tejrin-yplYz3j-du4UD50IwfbvVHy2ssDHVm5Jju8Eza7TEPuCTo05CsoSi1GW0rlktMJmecrH_fiCBewSdgWs1Rj2DjNiPVZpq-8P6u7gWaA/s320/P-007.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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We were able to see more of the mountain on the way down. Sadly, I didn't get too many pictures of it because my camera took a tumble off its shoulder strap, hit a rock, and developed a mind of its own.<br />
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There's a neat crater, which was invisible as we were going up but attractively misty on the way down.<br />
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Descending was less exhausting than ascending, but harder on the joints. I always descend cautiously, and on this terrain especially, I let the trekking poles do a lot of the work and take the brunt of the impact.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnu0lUcVToHUoryG-nYrbUShN63emypXXEV39WRR0BBmv8C2z2GrIkyU_Go3ZZYwH2ZwlLiYj6cyqn8j07vTL1hoYqUZyroUgEHFgH4Zf6oaC-QE3dkYw0jRKIS9mXnJvKTDwZOB-gTh4/s1600/P-026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnu0lUcVToHUoryG-nYrbUShN63emypXXEV39WRR0BBmv8C2z2GrIkyU_Go3ZZYwH2ZwlLiYj6cyqn8j07vTL1hoYqUZyroUgEHFgH4Zf6oaC-QE3dkYw0jRKIS9mXnJvKTDwZOB-gTh4/s320/P-026.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfaM8G6mq2HybC7_E4RB42AhoOm2nvfJy2DKs-qRrhyg6xsVSOAxKn77tZCCTR2o6z2cRizkb8zjS9FY3A0KRQmhK6mEi7O4k290E5-_yw9dsz3abkvykEPBYf90U8Zqjvy9rEWXpUnQ/s1600/20190916_181244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfaM8G6mq2HybC7_E4RB42AhoOm2nvfJy2DKs-qRrhyg6xsVSOAxKn77tZCCTR2o6z2cRizkb8zjS9FY3A0KRQmhK6mEi7O4k290E5-_yw9dsz3abkvykEPBYf90U8Zqjvy9rEWXpUnQ/s320/20190916_181244.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
It wasn't enough; my hamstrings were sore for days. I felt the slightest decline over on Sao Jorge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz5oInznjkbSJMyFKAMTC6dMdr27SYoIDKV6HQvYcTMRZ2qKPKX7EODjhBbVITo5OT4H0PYh_mcHmN-5NS2fMyolPXfW-lylRGiFJixUYSSaXpb_A9d9TwAFExNyXNu8MGtcjoCKZd5g8/s1600/20190916_140526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz5oInznjkbSJMyFKAMTC6dMdr27SYoIDKV6HQvYcTMRZ2qKPKX7EODjhBbVITo5OT4H0PYh_mcHmN-5NS2fMyolPXfW-lylRGiFJixUYSSaXpb_A9d9TwAFExNyXNu8MGtcjoCKZd5g8/s320/20190916_140526.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
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After the hike, we parted ways with the couple on our "team," and Raisa gave us a ride back to Sao Roque.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdcuH-W7aDZoAd1mkfCCW3-VOKtJcJraY565hRw8HLFTkkZv8j-d64OzbAsYIX1XFW3x7Rw8Gdm0ddGIQ2PnG3oz-N9pstOHqHNkQQWvEFUZH4autEBxlnJyqoHvawQdi1r1oRPP0OK60/s1600/20190916_174930.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1291" data-original-width="1600" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdcuH-W7aDZoAd1mkfCCW3-VOKtJcJraY565hRw8HLFTkkZv8j-d64OzbAsYIX1XFW3x7Rw8Gdm0ddGIQ2PnG3oz-N9pstOHqHNkQQWvEFUZH4autEBxlnJyqoHvawQdi1r1oRPP0OK60/s320/20190916_174930.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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We stopped at our favorite supermarket to get some fresh herbs for dinner and put away a gynormous amount of food. The next morning, we took off for Sao Jorge, leaving Mt. Pico in the distance.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-34234564808517231282019-10-13T17:51:00.002-04:002019-10-13T17:51:40.575-04:00Azores: Flores<br />
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First stop: Flores. <o:p></o:p>Flores is mind-blowingly beautiful. Not unlike Patagonia, one beautiful view opened up to another. I met the limits of my linguistic abilities to react to beauty; I just kept saying “WTF.” Starting with the rainbow that greeted us when we arrived at Aldeia de Cuada, the village where we would stay.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4U9gTRpuXOJxcn_2A5-i31UZnyIy-1bl60DUGHWtrta3Ti1JUItZFj2xRNgJiKwpYRO2-YJ7PHtN2kZZK0DYwX8XNdxWIpeWRu5QOnyP1MVod47ZHIVNp8-Bv3JNRQ15wNci6HGGozCk/s1600/20190912_180650.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4U9gTRpuXOJxcn_2A5-i31UZnyIy-1bl60DUGHWtrta3Ti1JUItZFj2xRNgJiKwpYRO2-YJ7PHtN2kZZK0DYwX8XNdxWIpeWRu5QOnyP1MVod47ZHIVNp8-Bv3JNRQ15wNci6HGGozCk/s320/20190912_180650.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Aldeia de Cuada was a set of converted cottages that had been abandoned. If we'd ended up trapped there for the duration of our stay, it wouldn't have been awful. Well, it would've been, because Flores has some mind-blowing sights, but still. </div>
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Most
the sights of the islands are meant to be driven to rather than hiked around.
Our first full day on Flores, we hoped to set out for various hikes around various
sets of lakes; instead, we ended up driving to both, with a set of waterfalls
in between. When I say “we,” I mean Kiera; I don’t drive stick, although after
this trip I feel the need to relearn. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">We started with two side-by-side crater lakes: </span>Lagoa Comprida and Lagoa Negra.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZrlOLE9mi3JF596InQlUMY6XbiCKlaNYlHjPuQZ-8_FZtDqfqBBnqMIWzseLzBvMRdNIKy0Zo5pOPq-6WCGgfOHCGX7lUyhZa1arSSqn042p6Fk-RL1Qvmb26QxgPhmPCLe1qccJp2hg/s1600/F-009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="376" data-original-width="1600" height="75" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZrlOLE9mi3JF596InQlUMY6XbiCKlaNYlHjPuQZ-8_FZtDqfqBBnqMIWzseLzBvMRdNIKy0Zo5pOPq-6WCGgfOHCGX7lUyhZa1arSSqn042p6Fk-RL1Qvmb26QxgPhmPCLe1qccJp2hg/s320/F-009.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkdT1faXvzIfmCPM6SKQgPBHXgvmerwW23BAjIhzV40hQAZwxWq-wdL267HKUCBMOcrTg6MLGy7uob4n2s9yi2p7F4pSwNR8VTUv_pAqb3P0MczekdFT09RSDb7N0sgXImAKyfhrD6FK0/s1600/F-005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkdT1faXvzIfmCPM6SKQgPBHXgvmerwW23BAjIhzV40hQAZwxWq-wdL267HKUCBMOcrTg6MLGy7uob4n2s9yi2p7F4pSwNR8VTUv_pAqb3P0MczekdFT09RSDb7N0sgXImAKyfhrD6FK0/s320/F-005.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then we went to see some waterfalls, of which you can only get the scale when you see them from the road,<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuWuF6ZY2RGUtyv7bjZybrOhWFJvFZGyIpOGxCdotel0kRMCdiorq91OzotUT7Sd6aUckKAwKa-FzND3vsUbhToIBXqYOK_Eti0Q0Orz_n0Mjv7Yp2VxBunv25ExstE8t98vwDhlv_t_4/s1600/F-019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="376" data-original-width="1600" height="75" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuWuF6ZY2RGUtyv7bjZybrOhWFJvFZGyIpOGxCdotel0kRMCdiorq91OzotUT7Sd6aUckKAwKa-FzND3vsUbhToIBXqYOK_Eti0Q0Orz_n0Mjv7Yp2VxBunv25ExstE8t98vwDhlv_t_4/s320/F-019.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
but they are also worth beholding from up close.<br />
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From there, (the royal) we drove to another set of side-by-side lakes (this time, separated by a whole road). There was a lovely view along the way.</div>
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Kiera had understandably had it with the driving, especially on dirt roads, so we parked and walked to the lakes.<br />
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By the next day, we were up for more walking, but we didn't envision this as a hiking trip, the hike up Mt. Pico aside. I thought there would be more short, leisurely walks. Our second day in Flores, we thought we were setting out for a somewhat leisurely walk from our village, via Faja Grande, to Ponta Delgada (the one on Flores, obvs). We thought we were almost there when we realized we weren't even close. Couldn't complain about the view.</div>
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But oh did we complain about everything else. The problem wasn't the length of the trail, or even the elevation; it was the condition of the path, which often took us over muddy, wet rocks. I embarked on the hike in sandals, one of which broke (luckily, not in a catastrophic way) because the sandals--glorified flip-flops, really--slide around on my feet when wet. There were bees and wasps, to which I am severely allergic. There wasn't, as I said, the length per se, but the fact that we'd so underestimated it. We went through our provisions of granola bars long after we were really f*ing sick of granola bars. We were running low on water. We were running low on time (we'd thought we'd hike round trip, but we were definitely going to need to cab--if we could find a cab). The trail seemed to never end (how do we have 3 km left? didn't you say 3.1 km an hour ago??), in part because we were moving slowly over the numerous treacherous sections. At one point, as we were navigating the muddy boulders with streams running through, Kiera said, "this is fine." As in, dog in the on-fire cafe "fine."<br />
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By the time we got to this view of Corvo, we'd have real roads the rest of the way.<br />
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We made it to Ponta Delgada--to its one restaurant--and ran into a German woman who was also staying at the village. We cabbed back together to her car, seeing this other lake along the way.</div>
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Her car was at Faja Grande, where we stopped for a swim (well, I did).</div>
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And that was what we saw in Flores. The next morning, we'd take off for the central set of islands.<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-61031277893528688392019-10-13T17:16:00.002-04:002019-10-13T17:51:57.463-04:00Azores: prologue<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Behold the middle of the Atlantic.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I beheld it in person, and it was awesome.<o:p></o:p></div>
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***<o:p></o:p></div>
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“You’re going <i>where</i>? What’s that??” was a common
reaction when I told people I was going to the Azores. I answered the question
and, for the ‘why’ that would follow, recommended an image search.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdBapuRfP-J828xnRqyPyzksAhQHKZj1fJODyCFX0I8ofkrbMkGJG5w-jMUg4j0bVcGCGY_huxhyphenhyphen0cXZgZ_ycnv7xPobTdZnqTiARfVblNgs8xhYUSq_EBB48tg2tFYrmN3p0jO-6uxbc/s1600/20190921_181711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdBapuRfP-J828xnRqyPyzksAhQHKZj1fJODyCFX0I8ofkrbMkGJG5w-jMUg4j0bVcGCGY_huxhyphenhyphen0cXZgZ_ycnv7xPobTdZnqTiARfVblNgs8xhYUSq_EBB48tg2tFYrmN3p0jO-6uxbc/s320/20190921_181711.jpg" width="320" /></a> <o:p></o:p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEigjKa3OPJ_ZsILFeLJ7UjRu4sGUgZ-D0hzYqa6gP4u7w1FDFNF_o4MSStpOKqQu-IPkdOTPN5tyxrkTGGzTx95uyK0SIH_y82qtEWfD2sa90AoprGv2dZP3Fy6LHT04KJ0wiDvN504o/s1600/20190922_104651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="405" data-original-width="1600" height="81" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEigjKa3OPJ_ZsILFeLJ7UjRu4sGUgZ-D0hzYqa6gP4u7w1FDFNF_o4MSStpOKqQu-IPkdOTPN5tyxrkTGGzTx95uyK0SIH_y82qtEWfD2sa90AoprGv2dZP3Fy6LHT04KJ0wiDvN504o/s320/20190922_104651.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I’d put out feelers more than a year ago to various friends
about an Azores trip. A couple of people tentatively bit, enough to do some
initial planning, and then unbit. I’d offered it up to Nina, which led to our
going to <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2019/10/romania-prologue.html">Romania</a> instead. Romania was beautiful and much-needed, but not
entirely a vacation (what with a five-year-old present), a month or so after
getting back I’d worked myself into a desperate need for another vacation. At
which point, from out of nowhere, one of the original takers wrote and said “let’s
do this.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The trip came together pretty fast (although barely fast
enough: we had a hard time in July getting reservations for September). We took
an entire weekend to figure out exactly where we wanted to go. The big choice
was between “chill” and “ambitious,” and we were close to opting for the former
when we decided we really should go to Flores, which pushed us toward the
latter. The best way to get out of Flores was via Faial, so we may as well
spend some time in that middle island group, and hike up Mt. Pico while we were
at it. So it would be: four islands in twelve days. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjES2UlqfgC-pPR4Bw0vyXqdWixY1sYqjOmi3ib9axPe-mqO9LBDbxYRNBnEHNFVWXpxJN7R4M1TaBjCiMJOxyHAU4Cr19yRwes5j_-9mmTDY6Ht0sphWp7KX49P26W3IxIR-v3leVxqH0/s1600/3393CBB5-11FA-459F-BC51-FD2EC3171199.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="1600" height="152" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjES2UlqfgC-pPR4Bw0vyXqdWixY1sYqjOmi3ib9axPe-mqO9LBDbxYRNBnEHNFVWXpxJN7R4M1TaBjCiMJOxyHAU4Cr19yRwes5j_-9mmTDY6Ht0sphWp7KX49P26W3IxIR-v3leVxqH0/s320/3393CBB5-11FA-459F-BC51-FD2EC3171199.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
The most efficient way to get to the Azores from the United States
is via Boston, which worked out well for me. I’d visit my dad and depart from
there. The most efficient way to get to the Azores is with Sata, or Azores
Airlines—which Google autofills to “worst airline ever.” But if you check the results,
it’s evidently only the fourth worst, or something like that. The negative
results spike every couple of years when people get stranded (often in Boston).
The Azores are a weather-rich environment, and Sata has a fleet of 14 planes, which
means limited options to replace any plane that experiences issues. The food was
atrocious even by airplane-food standards (in contrast, Turkish Airlines, which
I took to Romania, had very decent food by airplane-food standards), the
entertainment was minimal and device-based, and the seats were pretty cramped.
But I’d rather be on a worse airline for four hours than a great one for six hours
and then a layover followed by 2 more hours. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We did not get stuck in Boston, but I did get stuck on Sao
Miguel largely as a result of the incompetence of Sata. There was a slight
delay, which made for a precarious connection, especially with my bag the last
one off the carousel in Sao Miguel (I didn’t want to check it but it exceeded
the weight limit of 8 lbs by 2 lbs). I opted for my bigger, heavier-framed bag
not because I needed the space but for its ergonomics and handy pockets. Lesson
to self, so as not to be in an involuntary bag-check situation: get a smaller
version of the same bag (looking forward to those Osprey sales in November).
Also looking forward to camera sales, but more on that later.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Kiera was assured by the gate agents that I’d make it onto
the connection, but the Sata people evidently rebooked us both (but she had no
bag, so she was able to use her original boarding pass to board and they let
her stay). I had to spend 8 hours on Sao Miguel, which ended up being fine,
although it was definitely annoying. I checked my big bag to Flores, checked my
medium bag at left luggage, and wandered into Ponta Delgada, where I explored,
and found a SIM.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now, there was a Vodafone at the airport but the saleswoman told
me my only option was a 10GB SIM for €20, of which I had no need. The store
downtown offered me 5GB for €15, and only when I was about to walk did they reveal
the 3GB SIM for €10. That was twice as much as I’d paid in Romania, for half the
data, but it was a price I was willing to pay and it was worth it. Having a local
phone came in very handy.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I stuck the SIM into my dad’s old phone, which we replaced
because he thought the microphone had stopped working (I discovered that it
just has funky settings that keep it muted even when you’ve unmuted the volume).
On this trip I had more electronics than I’d ever traveled with: my ‘good’
phone, the ‘burner’ phone with the local SIM, my iPad (for ongoing trip
research, among other things), my good camera, and my underwater camera (for
snorkeling, kayaking, or other watery adventures). And all the associated
charging devices and other gear. And I used it all. I used just about everything
I brought, except for the epipen (and that’s a good thing) and one pair of lounge
pants (it was warm enough, even in the evenings, to lounge in dresses, but you never
know). There wasn’t anything I hadn’t packed that I missed; I’d debated bringing
trekking poles for Mt. Pico, but our guide had some for us to use. I’d also
debated bringing snorkeling gear, but overpaying for it was still a better
option than lugging it around. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I’d have liked more time on Pico; all we really did was hike,
although we got to see wine grapes growing in stone-wall arrangements during
the ride from the port, and I availed myself of the natural swimming pool a
short walk from our hotel. There was a lot more to see on Sao Miguel, but I was
happy with what I did see. On all the islands, when the fog comes in you can’t
see much of anything. We were super-lucky with the weather on Flores, mostly
lucky on Pico, occasionally lucky on Sao Jorge, and half-lucky on Sao Miguel.
But we made the most of it.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-61422621535353548082019-10-13T17:09:00.001-04:002019-10-13T17:09:21.707-04:00BucharestNina had to work when we got to Bucharest, so I took Izzy for a boat ride in the park.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSF4MHMN7mWwziQ8A-od_whyphenhyphenX2DwQLU4GIBdyHzAG0nsi0jRozHmQ4BU-82yKE3w57zyURZRYADkKOf7Ec4UkrcLeX-CEvYsuz097jZ16rFlJraObXqBBA1Yu8BRjubhEWdayvNL1qcSs/s1600/Izzy+playgrounds+and+pond+5-9-2019+9-38-06+AM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSF4MHMN7mWwziQ8A-od_whyphenhyphenX2DwQLU4GIBdyHzAG0nsi0jRozHmQ4BU-82yKE3w57zyURZRYADkKOf7Ec4UkrcLeX-CEvYsuz097jZ16rFlJraObXqBBA1Yu8BRjubhEWdayvNL1qcSs/s320/Izzy+playgrounds+and+pond+5-9-2019+9-38-06+AM.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFoZqeJds1BBgc95NPb57O-ZVw8vCYTire1vI6JDALeimesPktGmdsQ8SpXb2rVOHTgIC1INMPwez90GG2O7RCeiK8yoyN8oJJB39D_J6kdikpwo2tJ-9LYhoYFLcQlWByk-4rHwdnK-M/s1600/20190509_164050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="913" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFoZqeJds1BBgc95NPb57O-ZVw8vCYTire1vI6JDALeimesPktGmdsQ8SpXb2rVOHTgIC1INMPwez90GG2O7RCeiK8yoyN8oJJB39D_J6kdikpwo2tJ-9LYhoYFLcQlWByk-4rHwdnK-M/s320/20190509_164050.jpg" width="182" /></a></div>
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A nice woman in the park gave Izzy some bread with which to feed the pigeons. Nina later noted that bread isn't great for pigeons, in which case the ones in this park were in trouble.<br />
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The next day, I took Izzy to a massive playground complex overlooked by the massive Palace of Parliament.<br />
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Then we walked to a cat cafe, stopping to admire a duck family along the way.<br />
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We also admired a duck family on the way back.<br />
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We waited out a downpour under an awning, and then took a rainy path back to the apartment.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-29150738827273561682019-10-13T17:09:00.000-04:002019-10-13T17:09:08.424-04:00Danube DeltaOn the way to the Danube Delta, we stopped outside Ploesti at Nina's coworker's lavender farm.<br />
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We pressed on, saw some neat churches, had a nice Turkish dinner, and took a ferry before arriving in Somova.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2XJzF28uWcYI0_x2J_nJL9wMzCyf8UmCH2U3gcjNd6Of43i5qDc4EsM69Bhp1lntvgFuBv_g8GDbNKUPToog4elpVx2lIUxTSi30bxDeBUaDoDnpTkzrN3J1Rws4EaFUmLPEfi1FXlAk/s1600/20190505_162449.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2XJzF28uWcYI0_x2J_nJL9wMzCyf8UmCH2U3gcjNd6Of43i5qDc4EsM69Bhp1lntvgFuBv_g8GDbNKUPToog4elpVx2lIUxTSi30bxDeBUaDoDnpTkzrN3J1Rws4EaFUmLPEfi1FXlAk/s320/20190505_162449.jpg" width="237" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq4kMu_5_sEbsEsqj8Sog8l7oXnVjPwxhOzPiFVoOs91j4t2QDpxpUhhNLQQkg9uU4CZOEkamwfPKaBAEDevH4Px8O8Ran3hygfD2QDesaoWGDrGPB4JAZN5ZUosDRXcVe-N5bdcDxBso/s1600/IMG_4896.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq4kMu_5_sEbsEsqj8Sog8l7oXnVjPwxhOzPiFVoOs91j4t2QDpxpUhhNLQQkg9uU4CZOEkamwfPKaBAEDevH4Px8O8Ran3hygfD2QDesaoWGDrGPB4JAZN5ZUosDRXcVe-N5bdcDxBso/s320/IMG_4896.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVgVm9nlUJKfU2JIFtVoKVTcC3bYHCCvyap11OZ7UbWQQXmHGMintmuuT4kP62DtuliGd8qV0TLduNQXmzQe3KYGozHA_OMnKwZCLLGKYE7ckBu1rx799Xj5tL9L5Ylq0YdJlz421RDS4/s1600/Somova-030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVgVm9nlUJKfU2JIFtVoKVTcC3bYHCCvyap11OZ7UbWQQXmHGMintmuuT4kP62DtuliGd8qV0TLduNQXmzQe3KYGozHA_OMnKwZCLLGKYE7ckBu1rx799Xj5tL9L5Ylq0YdJlz421RDS4/s320/Somova-030.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Up the hill from where we were staying.</td></tr>
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The next day, we took a fast boat around the Delta, where we saw lots of birds, and took a safari around Letea forest, where we saw wild horses.<br />
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The next day--my birthday--we went to Enisala fortress and relished the views.<br />
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The next day brought more birdwatching. The weather wasn't as nice as our first day on the boat, but we bundled up and made it work.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So many cormorants in their nests!</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-37449117299265283932019-10-13T17:08:00.001-04:002019-10-13T17:08:43.374-04:00TransylvaniaWe stayed in the attic of the lovely Drachenhaus, each of us with our own room and a view of the city. We could see the Brasov sign from our window. As I mentioned, it took a bit of time to get going on Thursday morning, but by noon or so we made it to Rasnov, which also had a sign on a hilltop. The fortress offered some lovely views.<br />
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Nina had to get back for a work call, Shilpali needed a nap, and I had a burning desire to hike up Mount Tampa, so we returned to Brasov and each fulfilled our desires. On my way back, I finally stumbled upon a Vodafone and bought a local SIM, which made the rest of the trip much, much easier.<br />
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The next day, we were supposed to go to Sighisoara but Nina was all "but it looks like every town in Czech Republic and also I'm not driving" so we instead went to Peles Castle in Sinaia, which was awesome.<br />
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And after that, to the cafe at Cantacuzino Castle for a view of the Carpathians.<br />
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We returned to Brasov, which, by the way, I loved. Shilpali and I went on a rainy but informative walking tour.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The third narrowest "street" in Europe</td></tr>
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I went back and forth over whether to try to make it to Sighisoara, and ultimately decided that it was not to be missed. So I bought what I thought was a train ticket, and got on the train. I thought it was odd that the ticket was for 8:56 and the train was at 8:59, for a different destination. The conductor shrugged when I showed him the ticket on my phone. It dawned on me within minutes that what I had was a ticket for a bus, but what mattered was that I was on my way to Sighisoara. Which was gorgeous.</div>
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First stop was the clock tower, which offered a view of the city.<br />
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Vlad Tepes (Dracul), or Vlad the Impaler, was born in Sighisoara. He has no connection whatsoever to Bran, where "his" reportedly boring castle is.<br />
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I found the actual bus for the way back, which offered some stunning views of the countryside.<br />
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Upon returning, I completed my tour of the city walls and towers.</div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-186493492509002172019-10-13T17:08:00.000-04:002019-10-13T17:13:01.960-04:00Romania: prologueWhen I got on a plane to Europe for Nina's wedding <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2012/06/budapest-and-prague.html">seven years ago</a>, I was overworked, exhausted, and emotionally worn out. There were some <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2012/06/trains-stations-and-celebrations.html">mishaps along the way</a>, rendered that much more stark by my emotional state, but making it work in the face of all that and emerging stronger became a symbol for me of perseverance and growth. I look back on that trip as proof of <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2014/07/sunday-ramble-shit-fairy-and-shrubbery.html">shrubberies</a>, as <a href="https://genius.com/Dar-williams-the-easy-way-lyrics">wine and laughter</a>.<br />
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I got on a plane to Europe for a trip with Nina a few weeks ago heartbroken in a different way--devastated by the passing of my Gracie, drained emotionally and otherwise by the last month of taking care of her and cleaning up after her illness, overwhelmed and frustrated at work, and otherwise a mess. So much of the trip--the long day at work on Monday, the rush to the bus to Dulles--invoked That Trip. And much of it didn't; (almost) everything went smoothly this time around.</div>
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The trip came about when we were brainstorming where we might meet up for a quick girls' trip. She mentioned in passing that she'd be going to a conference in <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2019/10/bucharest.html">Bucharest</a> in May, to which I said I'd be happy to meet her there if she'd be up for going to <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2019/10/transylvania.html">Transylvania</a> beforehand. She counter-offered with the Danube Delta and asked if I'd provide childcare the day of the conference. I said let's do both regions, and yes on childcare.</div>
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It was Nina's idea to drive everywhere, and she said she'd be entirely comfortable driving. Then, she asked me if I could do some of the driving. I wasn't thrilled, but I agreed. By that point in the planning, I'd heard both that one had to be very careful driving in Romania and that the trains were unreliable, so driving really was the best way to get around. But the rental agency gave us a manual, which I don't know how to drive--a crappy one, at that, with no suspension--so it all fell on Nina anyway. She was sick of driving after two hours, which is what it took us to get to Brasov.</div>
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We'd both had a rough month (she lost a cat as well, knew some humans who'd just left this world, sprained her ankle, and dealt with a horse injury) so we both wanted a chill trip. It's just that we had very different understandings of 'chill.' Traveling with us was a coworker who was definitely on the chill side. I appreciated aspects of Nina's influence: of course it would be impractical to pack up a child every night or every other night, so we'd stay in the same place four nights in a row (almost unheard of in my itineraries!) and the next place four nights in a row. But I got very, very antsy when she couldn't wrangle her kid out of the hotel before 11am on the first day, and when we couldn't do more than one thing that day because said kid got antsy after not very long. Eventually, it all worked itself out: I made the most of doing things on my own, including going to Sighisoara after Nina balked at the driving. I was livid at the inconsiderateness--it was a priority on the itinerary for me--and if I hadn't found a way, I'd have resented her. But I did find a way, and it worked out. </div>
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I maintain that my frustrations at the itinerary shakeups were valid, but it's so liberating to also know that those frustrations were pointless--to remember that so much of the point of this trip was to spend time with Nina and her daughter, who is essentially my niece. We talked a lot, in the car and otherwise, about our childhoods, our parents, our baggage. Having grown up together, we understand each other's families profoundly. Even in the way of itineraries and slowdowns, the trip was better than if I'd planned/executed it myself. The <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2019/10/danube-delta.html">Danube Delta</a> wasn't on my radar at all, and I can't imagine having missed it. When you default to a mindframe of "other people slow me down," you risk closing yourself off to the paths they open up for you. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-40567055168051599692019-02-20T16:12:00.000-05:002019-02-20T16:12:19.172-05:00Snow day roundupWhy poppies:<br />
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Here's the American reason we wear poppies for Remembrance. <a href="https://twitter.com/hashtag/QI?src=hash&ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">#QI</a> <a href="https://t.co/JD0wFNY0s5">pic.twitter.com/JD0wFNY0s5</a></div>
— BBC Two (@BBCTwo) <a href="https://twitter.com/BBCTwo/status/1090189744221442049?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">January 29, 2019</a></blockquote>
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js"></script>
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I can't believe I even need to type these words, but: no one should ever be <a href="https://www.cnn.com/2019/02/14/us/montana-border-patrol-spanish-lawsuit/index.html">detained for speaking another language</a>.<br />
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Local <a href="https://twitter.com/haltman/status/1098194522167746561">journalism matters</a>.<br />
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Lots and lots of women didn't get credit for their <a href="https://www.theatlantic.com/science/archive/2019/02/womens-history-in-science-hidden-footnotes/582472/">contributions to science</a>, until some women made sure they did.<br />
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If businesses want communities to welcome them, they <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/local/trafficandcommuting/amazons-new-york-disaster-reminds-leaders-to-address-gentrification/2019/02/16/a75fbcb0-3165-11e9-86ab-5d02109aeb01_story.html">need to</a> <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/business/amazons-political-mugging-in-new-york-is-a-warning-for-american-business/2019/02/15/0f9686d8-313e-11e9-813a-0ab2f17e305b_story.html?utm_term=.5bd7a54900e3">do better</a>.<br />
<br />
How <a href="https://www.theatlantic.com/family/archive/2019/02/wedding-expos-reveal-a-lot-about-americans-ideals-of-romance/582421/">the wedding-industrial complex</a> gets you to turn over your money. Still, a wedding will cost much, much less than <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/local/social-issues/she-reported-that-her-husband-abused-her-then-the-divorce-became-another-form-of-abuse/2019/02/04/efa7ed8e-2653-11e9-90cd-dedb0c92dc17_story.html">some divorces</a>.<br />
<br />
The physics of <a href="https://www.wired.com/story/why-a-grape-turns-into-a-fireball-in-a-microwave/">microwaving grapes</a> and <a href="https://phys.org/news/2018-12-nuclear-fission-pear-shaped-nuclei.html">pear-shaped nuclei</a>.<br />
<br />
Make sure your reading habits don't make you <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/books/booksblog/2019/feb/11/shelf-policing-how-books-and-cacti-make-women-too-spiky-for-men">too spiky for men</a>. I'd better go hide my Hothead comic book collection.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-24405673832339326442019-01-26T09:13:00.001-05:002019-01-26T09:13:30.511-05:00Saturday roundupI will be better with regular updates! I've been once again embroiled in spiraling home repair/improvement projects.<br />
<br />
Surprise! Eating meat is still <a href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/environment/2019/01/commission-report-great-food-transformation-plant-diet-climate-change/">bad for the planet</a>.<br />
<br />
Income inequality is always structural.<br />
<blockquote class="twitter-tweet" data-lang="en">
<div dir="ltr" lang="en">
Pearlstein: The $786 million question: Does Steve Schwarzman — or anyone — deserve to make that much? <a href="https://t.co/ljRNloZWhX">https://t.co/ljRNloZWhX</a> <a href="https://t.co/Ld4i8nrSyW">pic.twitter.com/Ld4i8nrSyW</a></div>
— 🙀 (@rgbrb) <a href="https://twitter.com/rgbrb/status/1081918118816083975?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">January 6, 2019</a></blockquote>
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js"></script>
<br />
<br />
It's true, I should have <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/national/health-science/i-cut-off-all-contact-with-my-mother-it-made-my-life-much-better/2019/01/18/cc454e9e-1529-11e9-90a8-136fa44b80ba_story.html">cut my mother off</a> sooner; I didn't, for my dad. And I'm far from glad she's in her current state, but I'm very glad she's no longer in a position to constantly terrorize everyone around her.<br />
<br />
Jill Filipovic is on fire <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2019/jan/24/nancy-pelosi-alien-species-to-trump-shutdown">here</a>, but this, <a href="https://www.mcsweeneys.net/articles/faq-the-status-of-the-shits-women-have-left-to-give">from McSweeney's</a>, is *everything*:<br />
<br />
Always read Robin Givhan, whether's she's <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/style/gabriela-hearst-is-dressing-women-for-a-new-era-of-political-power/2019/01/16/e8f71b0c-f8d8-11e8-8d64-4e79db33382f_story.html?utm_term=.281db7116c56">fashion-reporting</a> or rocking <a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/style/the-maga-hat-is-not-a-statement-of-policy-its-an-inflammatory-declaration-of-identity/2019/01/23/9fe84bc0-1f39-11e9-8e21-59a09ff1e2a1_story.html">fashion sociology</a>:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div data-elm-loc="10" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #111111; font-family: Georgia, Times, "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: calc(1.5em + 0.3333vw); margin-bottom: 18px; margin-top: 4px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">The hat has become a symbol of us vs. them, of exclusion and suspicion, of garrulous narcissism, of white male privilege, of violence and hate. For minorities and the disenfranchised, it can spark a kind of gut-level disgust that brings ancestral ghosts to the fore. Here, in 2019, their painful past is present.</span></div>
<div data-elm-loc="11" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #111111; font-family: Georgia, Times, "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: calc(1.5em + 0.3333vw); margin-bottom: 18px; margin-top: 4px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">The MAGA hat speaks to America’s greatness with lies of omission and contortion. To wear a MAGA hat is to wrap oneself in a Confederate flag. The look may be more modern and the fit more precise, but it’s just as woeful and ugly.</span></div>
<div data-elm-loc="12" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #111111; font-family: Georgia, Times, "Times New Roman", serif; line-height: calc(1.5em + 0.3333vw); margin-bottom: 18px; margin-top: 4px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">To wear the hat is to take on history and divisiveness. Because whatever personal meaning might be attached to the hat, the new broader cultural meaning overrides. It is too late to save the hat from this fate. And it’s too soon to try to reclaim it and give it new life.</span></div>
</blockquote>
On the topic of fashion criticism, see my thoughts on puffer jackets.<br />
<blockquote class="twitter-tweet" data-lang="en">
<div dir="ltr" lang="en">
This was brought to my attn by someone who was offended by it, but I’d like to tell u why it doesn’t offend me (beyond the fact that it doesn’t critique women who choose puffercoats (I’m not one of those women, & it’s not bc I have “no self-esteem”). <a href="https://t.co/g3eqc1QaHK">https://t.co/g3eqc1QaHK</a></div>
— 🙀 (@rgbrb) <a href="https://twitter.com/rgbrb/status/1082423469776793600?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">January 7, 2019</a></blockquote>
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js"></script>
<br />
<br />
WashPo discovered unrefined sunflower oil and I had thoughts (read the whole thread).<br />
<blockquote class="twitter-tweet" data-lang="en">
<div dir="ltr" lang="en">
“Is here”? Now I get how Vietnamese people feel when Americans write about having “discovered” pho.<br />
<br />
Also, $10? Even inadequate DC-area Russian stores have it for less than half that<br />
<br />
Nutty, buttery, cold-pressed sunflower oil is here & ready to be tasted. <a href="https://t.co/fSCJbIUWfA">https://t.co/fSCJbIUWfA</a></div>
— 🙀 (@rgbrb) <a href="https://twitter.com/rgbrb/status/1086959147688624128?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">January 20, 2019</a></blockquote>
<br />
Have some periodic-table porn.<br />
<blockquote class="twitter-tweet" data-lang="en">
<div dir="ltr" lang="en">
2019 is International Year of the Periodic Table, marking 150 years since Dmitry Mendeleev's Periodic System. This beautiful arrangement of the elements comes from May 1949's <a href="https://twitter.com/LIFE?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">@LIFE</a> magazine feature on The Atom. The full issue is here: <a href="https://t.co/Mv7pRIFT7d">https://t.co/Mv7pRIFT7d</a> <a href="https://t.co/gH4MF4bKQG">pic.twitter.com/gH4MF4bKQG</a></div>
— Paul Coxon (@paulcoxon) <a href="https://twitter.com/paulcoxon/status/1080074471644581888?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">January 1, 2019</a></blockquote>
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js"></script>
<br />
<br />
Polar <a href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/magazine/2019/02/see-what-happens-when-a-polar-bear-finds-a-camera/">bear meets camera</a>.<br />
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js"></script>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-6683386775723965222018-12-30T08:14:00.001-05:002018-12-30T08:14:02.852-05:00Catch-up roundupYes, I know, I've been terrible. Here's an attempt to catch up. Still missing a bunch of good stuff in the <i>New Yorker</i>.<br />
<br />
A thread on the war on women<br />
<blockquote class="twitter-tweet" data-lang="en">
<div dir="ltr" lang="en">
Statutes that give fetuses more rights than the women who carry them are bound to lead to heartbreaking outcomes when applied in the real world <a href="https://t.co/J38NXHxeHa">https://t.co/J38NXHxeHa</a></div>
— NYT Opinion (@nytopinion) <a href="https://twitter.com/nytopinion/status/1079144759896276992?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">December 29, 2018</a></blockquote>
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js"></script>
<br />
See also<br />
<blockquote class="twitter-tweet" data-lang="en">
<div dir="ltr" lang="en">
amazing <a href="https://t.co/i3XMeLBp4u">pic.twitter.com/i3XMeLBp4u</a></div>
— rudy mustang (@rudy_mustang) <a href="https://twitter.com/rudy_mustang/status/1077679943788740609?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">December 25, 2018</a></blockquote>
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js"></script>
(Pair that with <a href="https://www.lemonde.fr/m-perso/article/2017/12/17/clitoridiennes-de-tous-les-pays-unissez-vous_5230926_4497916.html">this</a>, which is lighter but still).<br />
<br />
On popular <a href="https://forward.com/opinion/416284/alice-walkers-conspiracy-theories-arent-just-anti-semitic-theyre-anti/">anti-semitism</a>.<br />
<br />
This is the amazing parody <a href="https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/2018-the-year-in-ideas-a-review-of-ideas_us_5c242fc1e4b05c88b6fd6011">thinkpiece we need</a>.<br />
<br />
Finally, happy holidays
<br />
<blockquote class="twitter-tweet" data-lang="en">
<div dir="ltr" lang="en">
I post this brilliant Bacillus Christmas Tree from <a href="https://twitter.com/LaboratoryEQAS?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">@LaboratoryEQAS</a> every year. <a href="https://twitter.com/hashtag/Microbiology?src=hash&ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">#Microbiology</a> <a href="https://twitter.com/hashtag/Science?src=hash&ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">#Science</a> <a href="https://t.co/wGHrhksK6V">pic.twitter.com/wGHrhksK6V</a></div>
— Phil Baty (@Phil_Baty) <a href="https://twitter.com/Phil_Baty/status/1076927939915198464?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">December 23, 2018</a></blockquote>
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js"></script>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-11326085659784117512018-12-22T20:17:00.000-05:002018-12-28T14:14:39.998-05:00Patagonia: epilogueOn Friday morning, Alex and I left Jason with a day on his own in Santiago, during which he got caught up in some protests (we'd been reading there about unrest surrounding the murder of a Mapuche man). I was equal parts ready and not ready to go. I was ready to quit living out of a backpack, as wonderful as my backpack was. I was ready to cook for myself (although I was ready for a break when I left for the trip). I wasn't ready to leave the beauty, or the feeling of being in South America.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Our long-haul back (Santiago to Toronto) was glorious. We were able to choose exit-row seats for free, and there was no one in the middle seat between us. A far cry from the flight to Buenos Aires that had me scrunched and furious, this was the best-case coach scenario. I drank wine, watched five movies over ten hours, and hardly thought 'are we there yet.' </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I came home very late to a rainy weekend (after three weeks of nearly perfect, albeit occasionally windy weather). I processed my more than 3,000 photos--most from the camera, some from the phone, which was handy especially when my camera battery crapped out near Fitz Roy (I thought I had a spare but it didn't charge) and I my memory card filled up on the first leg of the W (I went through and deleted accidental videos, which freed up plenty of space). I never did use the travel tripod I bought for the trip (I would have had it been dark and clear enough for stars), but I sure did use the shoulder strap. It was very handy to not carry the camera or use up a pocket for it.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
It was a rough week at work; my head was still in South America. But I also maintained my post-vacation chill. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I want to go back. To see Bariloche and Chiloe and the lakes. I want glaciers and turquoise lakes and I want them everywhere.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
***</div>
<div>
Some disjointed thoughts:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I expected this trip to be a food nightmare, but it wasn't; I was able to have a lot of good vegan food, although I had to eat the occasional non-vegan pizza. The food I had was overwhelmingly wonderful. It's the inverse of last year's winter vacation: I had high hopes for Malaysia, but most of food was disappointing. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Also unlike Malaysia, we were actually able to get away from Xmas decorations and music (they ticked up a bit in Santiago but weren't overwhelming). </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The days were very long, which I loved (even though I was ready for it to get dark already!), and although it wasn't freezing cold, it was cool enough that I felt like I was coming back to winter from a tropical paradise.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Costs: Chile's not cheap, and Argentinian Patagonia isn't either. Both countries also charge a lot for ATM fees ($10 is standard in Argentina, $5 in Chile), and make it difficult for you to use a local SIM. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Gear and supplies: Apart from a few long-sleeved shirts, I used pretty much everything I'd brought. I didn't use the headlamp, but it wasn't a mistake to bring it just in case. In addition to the pack, sleeping bag, trekking poles, and hiking boots, I had a knee brace, ankle wrap, nyquil, sunblock, and a hat. I still got mildly burned (hole in the ozone layer) but without the sunblock and hat I would've been tomato-red. What else: hand sanitizer, toilet paper/tissues/wipes, bubble wrap to secure wine, ziploc and other plastic bags to keep things dry, including a trash bag to line the backpack, a meshy bag to hold the various charges (this was awesome: instead of constantly checking for each charger, I always made sure to return them to the one bag after using them), adapters, and lots of granola bars. <i>New Yorker</i>s, <i>Atlantic</i>s, and crosswords. Noise-cancelling headphones, of course. Raingear. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
***</div>
<div>
A closing thought: it was awesome. I tried to temper my expectations, but there was no need. Patagonia is breathtaking. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-85734231101422775402018-12-22T19:42:00.002-05:002018-12-31T13:03:55.433-05:00Maipo (the Canyon and the valley)An outing to the Cajon del Maipo is difficult to plan. There's not a ton of information available online (most of the Trip Advisor stuff tries to sell you group trips). We settled on a hike to Monumento el Morado. The other hikes—the rumoredly stunning Embalso al Yeso—would’ve
required a 4x4. The Monumento was beautiful, not for the glacier and lake combo
I’d grown accustomed to but for the rockier mountains facing us on the way
back. One looked positively rainbow-ish. It was just good to be back in the
mountains after days in <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/santiago.html">the city</a>.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIzut0YqrHnHxtYBObUNei2U9-o_zPwDJU0f9FAabjkZt-ImTEYIn4q5phniJ4iIZkmJqoo66DEclulOTTPQdEiDKSdFeRFaTWAj7TVf5QfvfwVhrpS2iIrqqpLYrklZZQzs_nu8_5e8E/s1600/Santiago+12-12-2018+1-09-51+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIzut0YqrHnHxtYBObUNei2U9-o_zPwDJU0f9FAabjkZt-ImTEYIn4q5phniJ4iIZkmJqoo66DEclulOTTPQdEiDKSdFeRFaTWAj7TVf5QfvfwVhrpS2iIrqqpLYrklZZQzs_nu8_5e8E/s320/Santiago+12-12-2018+1-09-51+PM.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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It was a gorgeous day. At one point, Alex said he thought it was windy. Jason and I looked at each other and almost simultaneously said, this is what we who've been to Torres del Paine call a light breeze. We hadn't noticed it at all.</div>
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After that, not-so-hot hot springs (mineral
springs, though).<br />
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The next day, we intended to
vineyard-hop but without reservations we basically only hit one (and had lunch
at another that offered samples with lunch). We learned more about the different
conditions that inform the grapes, about how those conditions are different even just across the Andes in Argentina. Our guide told us about the time an earthquake destroyed a lot of wine that was in the process of fermenting, and the ill-smelling contents of the breached barrels flooded the streets. We loved everything we tried, and the guide was super informed and passionate.<br />
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It wasn't a bad way to enjoy our last day in Chile.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-28210304723405135572018-12-22T19:28:00.000-05:002018-12-31T13:45:50.631-05:00Santiago de ChileThe afternoon before we headed to <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/valparaiso-and-casablanca-valley.html">the coast</a>, and the day after we returned, we explored Santiago. That first afternoon, in addition to going to La Chascona,<br />
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we hiked up Cerro San Cristobal and observed a religious service in the working church atop the hill.<br />
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The city was lit up on our walk home from dinner.<br />
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We started out a couple of days later, after getting back from the coast, by hiking the more manageable but equally beautiful Cerro Santa Lucia, which Charles Darwin also enjoyed back in the day.<br />
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From there, we walked around town</div>
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And came to the Museo de Bellas Artes.<br />
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We had a winy lunch at BocaNariz,<br />
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And headed off by metro to the powerful human rights museum across town.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ49ExzuZmMC1bN-xQawGw5lNA_nofQzfpvaFOdgmIh_wP7UsNEDDJNgXnlmIARYJv7ZN_FHcVPll7CdPn7ijKZpj9M8nkVHkQz9gSCjOVI4rfXGtd-d8joRigsm_rij3HjcwUdNt1g0Y/s1600/Santiago+12-11-2018+3-10-17+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ49ExzuZmMC1bN-xQawGw5lNA_nofQzfpvaFOdgmIh_wP7UsNEDDJNgXnlmIARYJv7ZN_FHcVPll7CdPn7ijKZpj9M8nkVHkQz9gSCjOVI4rfXGtd-d8joRigsm_rij3HjcwUdNt1g0Y/s320/Santiago+12-11-2018+3-10-17+PM.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDetG3RbUg8bLyez38P1T_knO9u1HGFC_8jEmNy1smuI5vOwaz2SMMnHwK8mwtb2cnwLYD3669IcKGL2d0nebI_gtOHknlWi_61tDjcwBWIoKK6Tuy-iwoMwFXmY5OfJfeVcgWY0gbQxo/s1600/Santiago+12-11-2018+3-37-34+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDetG3RbUg8bLyez38P1T_knO9u1HGFC_8jEmNy1smuI5vOwaz2SMMnHwK8mwtb2cnwLYD3669IcKGL2d0nebI_gtOHknlWi_61tDjcwBWIoKK6Tuy-iwoMwFXmY5OfJfeVcgWY0gbQxo/s320/Santiago+12-11-2018+3-37-34+PM.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A representation of the victims of the junta</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh00W0bQ2Qg9ub0RSWIXzymZk-4RiBc9NqVmQzsZxBw_Tu-YEIopIjlVoz80kFC4eOBpjhpruSO5_mMq3ZJdxY-QIsFA_MIBRNLi5cr0sEhwfeKigpezlMU1h8upXHj9rVMTkxURzmk1xw/s1600/Santiago+12-11-2018+4-19-37+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="588" data-original-width="1600" height="116" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh00W0bQ2Qg9ub0RSWIXzymZk-4RiBc9NqVmQzsZxBw_Tu-YEIopIjlVoz80kFC4eOBpjhpruSO5_mMq3ZJdxY-QIsFA_MIBRNLi5cr0sEhwfeKigpezlMU1h8upXHj9rVMTkxURzmk1xw/s320/Santiago+12-11-2018+4-19-37+PM.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Truth and Reconciliation commissions around the world</td></tr>
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I have so much more to say about this museum but I don't know where to start. It succeeds in providing historical perspective and showing the scale of the effects of the junta, but also honoring and humanizing individual victims.<br />
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After a somber few hours, we headed back to our end of town. It's not Valparaiso, but Santiago has its own murals and other works of art, and it's certainly hopping.<br />
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Our last night together in Chile, after our day of wine tourism in <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/maipo-canyon-and-valley.html">Maipo</a>, we had dinner at Vegan Bunker and admired the moon on our way home.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-32363154180381785622018-12-22T19:15:00.000-05:002018-12-31T13:44:46.835-05:00Valparaiso and the Casablanca ValleyThe drive to the coast wasn't without its views.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRzM2ahobWvybnGJQDJ5dZnax-zz24YA_1uJ80ef1K9VI1QtbdIGzB1NRrVdUn1-YhDoRoucr1dato5e-JpxJ2YrRCa58juCv_3AXJ5kjmOfl7eq3zMvaVc2PWAdJbBaQjyQ-hxU_0SfE/s1600/20181209_124218.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRzM2ahobWvybnGJQDJ5dZnax-zz24YA_1uJ80ef1K9VI1QtbdIGzB1NRrVdUn1-YhDoRoucr1dato5e-JpxJ2YrRCa58juCv_3AXJ5kjmOfl7eq3zMvaVc2PWAdJbBaQjyQ-hxU_0SfE/s320/20181209_124218.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Our first stop in Valparaiso was La Sebastiana, one of Pablo Neruda's houses. We'd hit another--in Isla Negra--on the way to Valpo, and a third--La Chascona--the day before after we got into Santiago. We hadn't had enough by the time we were done; we were ready for another Neruda house. I don't have many pictures, because photography's not allowed inside. They all have a maritime theme, and all display his collections of souvenirs from around the world, as well as his books.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh06IgzAu04uDKFZMaVAu7E_JmmKETx9tSutnFDLc8UOlXtVQxddQlU_vYftnB5PIhPRHU_wBuo3qx5Fr82JNvipIUGJD73OeqevQQ-5APcTkVqlrNnE5VFIrweJCdZoVRlGq_5nVGM6g4/s1600/20181209_105629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh06IgzAu04uDKFZMaVAu7E_JmmKETx9tSutnFDLc8UOlXtVQxddQlU_vYftnB5PIhPRHU_wBuo3qx5Fr82JNvipIUGJD73OeqevQQ-5APcTkVqlrNnE5VFIrweJCdZoVRlGq_5nVGM6g4/s320/20181209_105629.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Isla Negra</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieOMeqnFACXt0_eyw5cNC5X0mAGKDDHE-eIt-1uY_KWV7QMcb6sKDFUqIlwAHYx88B6bOOAczbShsTJFHEMPsJg6eOgu37batYIGLhfbuDGf6p36kx7q5H4FUiO89L3gPpKY947uKXea4/s1600/20181209_105656.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieOMeqnFACXt0_eyw5cNC5X0mAGKDDHE-eIt-1uY_KWV7QMcb6sKDFUqIlwAHYx88B6bOOAczbShsTJFHEMPsJg6eOgu37batYIGLhfbuDGf6p36kx7q5H4FUiO89L3gPpKY947uKXea4/s320/20181209_105656.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The grave of Pablo Neruda and Mathilde Urrutia</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMTKVe-7cAXG08_eKy88g1OmGXIKqZGvTFeFOmq5sEtaqnCPCZGE1ln7h2wGTQXSfK8hNbnNm_k8qCp4wgQn-WBHyNCzbK_3-L5pbaTNJXxPGiZx-kWP5I0rER4RPM7GmtgIogLoj5Oog/s1600/20181209_113134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMTKVe-7cAXG08_eKy88g1OmGXIKqZGvTFeFOmq5sEtaqnCPCZGE1ln7h2wGTQXSfK8hNbnNm_k8qCp4wgQn-WBHyNCzbK_3-L5pbaTNJXxPGiZx-kWP5I0rER4RPM7GmtgIogLoj5Oog/s320/20181209_113134.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside the Isla Negra house</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Sebastiana </td></tr>
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As you may know, the great poet passed away shortly after the 1973 coup, and his widow, an artist in her own right, emerged as an important human rights activist. Her first act of resistance was to hold a public funeral for Pablo, understanding the risks--knowing how much the junta would hate the public mourning of her husband.<br />
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We descended from the hills around la Sebastiana and frantically searched for our Airbnb (I'll spare you the details). Once we found it, we set off for the historic quarter of Valpo, a city known for its ever-changing murals.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVU4-8msiJjZ8QNjx2eVPcTrNQb67ZLdFYUPB08YYIFxe5Lnxwtf2VJpgN_II4Is7RQ2kw-r-jfyTt1KJJYZH5V_1eNCOAVY_ZUJhc7o9NTdoTUSAQg4iXgnkxxlmNibsz3dPOxZtmraI/s1600/20181210_083746.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="813" data-original-width="1118" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVU4-8msiJjZ8QNjx2eVPcTrNQb67ZLdFYUPB08YYIFxe5Lnxwtf2VJpgN_II4Is7RQ2kw-r-jfyTt1KJJYZH5V_1eNCOAVY_ZUJhc7o9NTdoTUSAQg4iXgnkxxlmNibsz3dPOxZtmraI/s320/20181210_083746.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This street art had mirrors</td></tr>
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The next morning, we hit the beach in the next town over, Viña del Mar.<br />
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And toured an interesting vineyard in the Casablanca Valley, where we learned about the varietals that do well in the various regional microclimates (Casablanca, by the sea, is very different from <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/maipo-canyon-and-valley.html">Maipo</a> by the mountains). We learned that Carmanere was overproduced and lost its reputation as a result, but many wineries are determined to revive it, as it is so Chilean. It's also hard to do well because the various grapes from the same cluster have to be picked at different times. Our tour guide was incredibly passionate about Chilean wine.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This vineyard also produces fruit licquers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After the tour, a tasting</td></tr>
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From there, back to <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/santiago.html">Santiago</a>.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-37521700692863698852018-12-22T17:26:00.001-05:002018-12-31T13:42:52.992-05:00Technically still Patagonia: Puerto Varas and PetrohuePuerto Montt is the northern end of Patagonia, and the southern end of the Lakes District. We opted to overnight there--rather than fly straight to Santiago--in case <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/chilean-patagonia-fiords-from-navimag.html">the ferry</a> was late in dropping us off. In the event that we'd have a day there, we planned to explore Chiloe, a nearby island with historic churches. Sadly Chiloe could only be reached by a ferry with a persnickety schedule, so by the time we got off our ferry and picked up our rental car, we wouldn't make it. Instead, we went to Puerto Varas and Petrohue.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Volcan Osarno</td></tr>
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We were bummed we didn't have more time to spend in the area, although it was just as well because it started to rain just as we left for <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/santiago.html">Santiago</a>, and it would do for days.<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-35366449666145978432018-12-22T17:19:00.000-05:002018-12-30T10:11:51.985-05:00Chilean Patagonia: The fiords from the Navimag ferryIt was so windy in Puerto Natales that we couldn't board the ferry until after 11pm, probably closer to midnight, and even then the rooms weren't ready as they had to be cleaned after the previous occupants. We’d sprung for a nicer cabin with
its own bathroom, but not for a double, and hoped our bunkmates
wouldn’t be awful. Ten minutes or so after we got into our cabin, it dawned on us that we *might* have it to ourselves but we didn’t dare dream. As more time went by, we noticed that there were only two keys on the hooks. Then, Jason noticed that only the two bottom beds were made up. We still weren’t ready to take anything for granted. When it finally became clear that no one else would be joining us, we did the happiest of proverbial happy dances. That cabin was barely big enough for the two of us and our stuff (we each took up two lockers); we two had to carefully navigate around each other. I can’t imagine having had another two people in that room. I later befriended a British boat-builder-turned-consultant (Robert) who was put in a room with “three very smelly Frenchman” and even more emphatically thanked the FSM for our good fortune.<br />
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It was wonderful to be on the ferry—in one place for four nights and three days—without packing and unpacking and living out of a backpack and catching planes or buses. This, too, we did in the right order: after a week of trekking, we were ready to for some low-key lounging. With views of snow-capped mountains like the ones that so <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/chilean-patagonia-tierra-del-paine.html">captivated us on the trek</a>.<o:p></o:p><br />
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Robert told us that he’d taken the ferry in the past, and that it looked like it was at about half-capacity. I couldn’t imagine it full; they’d need to stage meals like they do at the refugios in Torres del Paine. As it were, there were lines around the dining room when meals were announced. My new friend offered me a glass of wine, which would have surprised me two days earlier. Alcohol was expressly not allowed on the boat (something had gone bad years ago). When they announced the ban, however, they quickly added “but mind you we’re not police. We won’t be looking for your alcohol.” Robert said they straight-out told him to bring his own.<br />
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The day before, or maybe earlier that day, Jay and I were given a beer each by my other buddy, Claudio the truck driver (this was a cargo ferry that happens to accommodate leisure passengers, rather than a cruise). We were looking at the route map on the upper deck when he started chatting with us in Spanish. </div>
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He trucks frozen produce all over the continent and has a family, including two kids and a poodle, in Santiago. The ferry bores him, including the scenery. To him, it’s routine.</div>
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He was pleasantly surprised at my
Spanish, and offered me a beer—Crystal brand, the favorite of the people of Chile. </div>
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We didn’t find
him that night, but he brought us some the next day, together with his music.
He played Mazzie Star up on the deck, then Patrick Swayze. He asked me if I
liked Michael Bolton, at which point I turned to Jason and asked how one says
“No Talent Ass Clown” in Spanish. He also loved Cyndi Lauper, said her music
made him cry. It was surreal to be listening to rock music and drinking bear
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The food on the ferry was excellent, and they accommodated dietary restrictions. </div>
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The yoga was quality as well. Cristián thanked us for gracing the room (or deck) with our presence, and ended by saying that we are empty, therefore we have everything. It was a phenomenal class, and the Tai Chi was also pretty good. The second day of Tai Chi was on the open ocean--first time ever that it was calm enough there to even try; we had an almost complete class before he ended early, saying that in these conditions it was an extreme sport. That night, the boat not-so-gently listed from side to side, which I found to be excellent sleeping conditions. I get motion sick in just about every other environment, but I've always, so far, been fine on boats. I declined the dramamine the crew handed out before we emerged from the fiords into the ocean.<br />
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I was disappointed by the paucity of wildlife, though I knew it wasn't really the time of year for whales. We did see some dolphins splashing around on our first day, and then what must have been whales later in the trip. We saw narrows, and shipwrecks, and snowcapped volcanoes. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Puerto Eden, a floating village reachable only by boat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A shipwreck perched atop another shipwreck</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAECb_w40GxUA84qA7dzX6_cIQgzM5TVmnqf4EAVtDneMoS8V1pmvl4FkDywwzEO21uIF0frrR9kVK2oIpn5UqCEtS5UEgdOif5QECv74Km_F6vf7mPCJ2rlbZCFqT7bfkojMPgLrybxg/s1600/Navimag+12-5-2018+7-49-04+AM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAECb_w40GxUA84qA7dzX6_cIQgzM5TVmnqf4EAVtDneMoS8V1pmvl4FkDywwzEO21uIF0frrR9kVK2oIpn5UqCEtS5UEgdOif5QECv74Km_F6vf7mPCJ2rlbZCFqT7bfkojMPgLrybxg/s320/Navimag+12-5-2018+7-49-04+AM.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's become an island for birds, complete with a tree growing out of it</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1vR-kVAi7fE_ylaJyaW2_zcSqpDjjLbJT3V1YCyjBE45z-3uyhba2HdYo4HaSbuU0cnEGLA-nMxfoyQHL0MYODmQCHUEu8GQe_-li96lPY-WmhvmsEt66oP2x_9uI82bj45QZwRGUas0/s1600/20181205_101041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="778" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1vR-kVAi7fE_ylaJyaW2_zcSqpDjjLbJT3V1YCyjBE45z-3uyhba2HdYo4HaSbuU0cnEGLA-nMxfoyQHL0MYODmQCHUEu8GQe_-li96lPY-WmhvmsEt66oP2x_9uI82bj45QZwRGUas0/s320/20181205_101041.jpg" width="155" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The yoga was wonderful</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjafYHw1f7ndWb4eIDBtv1oSqSbdqXbBlDCtb6Q9Hwm0FVuxCg5kk5yZzlrHTwF0JhzDAijM4hhgZ616x5vYwuQAbzt34fanxNwXZoPkny7BYNE9yB7Z0QlFdofDVX1a5ZVBm49YjGwxys/s1600/Navimag+12-6-2018+9-41-44+AM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjafYHw1f7ndWb4eIDBtv1oSqSbdqXbBlDCtb6Q9Hwm0FVuxCg5kk5yZzlrHTwF0JhzDAijM4hhgZ616x5vYwuQAbzt34fanxNwXZoPkny7BYNE9yB7Z0QlFdofDVX1a5ZVBm49YjGwxys/s320/Navimag+12-6-2018+9-41-44+AM.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We got to tour the bridge</td></tr>
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One night we stayed up, though not too long, to see stars. As we sailed north, we were actually able to catch a sunset. It was lovely.<br />
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The movies were thought-provoking. I’m still shaken by “Machuca.” The Pablo Neruda film they showed the first day started out strong but got weird in a self-involved way. Chile is one of those countries where the past and the political is ever-present. It was maybe after one of the movies that I asked Jason if he’d read anything by Isabel Allende. I’d also referenced Ariel Dorfman. He said I must have really paid attention at school, but I never formally learned about Latin American history in school (well, until grad school). I learned about it indirectly from reading Latin American literature and taking Spanish (which, admittedly, I mostly did as an undergrad). I shrugged off the comment, said you don’t get fluent in Spanish by <i>not</i> reading in it. Shortly before the trip, I dug out my copy of “Canto General” and started to read a page or so aloud before bed. I don’t understand every word, but the meaning washes over me nonetheless.<br />
<br />
We were somewhat refreshed and ready to disembark by the time we got to Puerto Montt. Here were the seals that greeted us before we disembarked and headed off to <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/technically-still-patagonia-puerto.html">Puerto Varas</a>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seals greeted us in Puerto Montt</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-20722941967487486602018-12-22T16:59:00.004-05:002018-12-30T09:33:54.111-05:00Chilean Patagonia: Tierra del Paine National Park<span style="font-family: inherit;">“This is </span><i style="font-family: inherit;">not</i><span style="font-family: inherit;"> fun.
It’s beautiful, but it’s not fun.” </span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> –Jason, within half an hour of our first leg
of the W<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">“But on you will go though the weather be foul… Onward up
many a frightening creek, though your arms may get sore and your sneakers may
leak. On and on you will hike.” </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> –Dr. Seuss (“Oh, the Places You’ll Go”)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">“I made it through the wilderness… somehow I made it
through-ooo-ooo.” </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> –Jason, with apologies to Madonna, as we were settling in
at Cuernos at the end of our second day on the W.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
The W trek is named for its shape, though it's more like a Russian "ш," and even more like a set of butt cheeks. There are three legs up, and two shorter legs connecting
those three. The wonderful thing is, you can leave your pack at the nearest
campground or refugio for the upward legs.<br />
<br />
It was a difficult trek to plan for,
because there is a ton of somewhat conflicting information out there. There
were a few constants: the weather is unpredictable, so prepare for four seasons
within the course of a day, and it’s windy AF. Also, you’d better make your
reservations ages in advance. Even in June, when Jason and I made our
reservations, one refugio was sold out of bunk beds and offered us a pre-set
tent instead. Most of what I read online described the trek as moderate and not
terribly challenging. Several people said that a reasonably fit trekker needed
only four days rather than the standard five. Having completed the Inca Trail
in three days rather than the standard four without trying, and in light of our
tight schedule (and, thirdly, the high price of food and lodging in the park),
we agreed to hike it—all 58 miles of it—in four days (two and two halves,
really). Starting after only a day's break since the two consecutive <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/argentinian-patagonia-cerro-fitz-roy.html">hikes in Argentina</a> (16 and 14
miles, respectively). My full-blown cold slowed me down for the first two days of the trek. The trail kicked our asses, but we did it.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrd5mFnYdIHXOC9hxzfAUOWC8PnOq43aJaMbrHGVARoYzZyJ4nSutGEeXShmB7qtH0AP-2WxQGaKkn1mYTAkVjrvXnFb5RwSDC7GWtv8gAEeeDNv0Y_hxy7b9mBSisogwTkUSnIS-GdS4/s1600/EBC1A4CC-1FCF-4279-AF65-845C497BF768.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="838" data-original-width="725" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrd5mFnYdIHXOC9hxzfAUOWC8PnOq43aJaMbrHGVARoYzZyJ4nSutGEeXShmB7qtH0AP-2WxQGaKkn1mYTAkVjrvXnFb5RwSDC7GWtv8gAEeeDNv0Y_hxy7b9mBSisogwTkUSnIS-GdS4/s200/EBC1A4CC-1FCF-4279-AF65-845C497BF768.jpeg" width="172" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWHAqYHr9x1NouKZhohZxYrGpUbRKIZuWU_wY-j8tvOfgW7hlDZ_Cnz8KU0nGI8exgEdXQJz-SfIrK7_4sdc9C5qa60gEgIuN3rIIck46UcBRX5N6tOg5lJqGxGGjekkXlTdKXFdooIp8/s1600/5CE2875D-A29B-4C15-BD8C-394C76A3BC79.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWHAqYHr9x1NouKZhohZxYrGpUbRKIZuWU_wY-j8tvOfgW7hlDZ_Cnz8KU0nGI8exgEdXQJz-SfIrK7_4sdc9C5qa60gEgIuN3rIIck46UcBRX5N6tOg5lJqGxGGjekkXlTdKXFdooIp8/s200/5CE2875D-A29B-4C15-BD8C-394C76A3BC79.jpeg" width="200" /></a><br />
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There’s a debate as to whether it’s best to trek west to east or east to west (we chose the latter, or rather, the need to be back in Puerto Natales to check in for the ferry chose for us). The briefing at Erratic Rock that we attended the day before the trek didn't express a preference. The briefer did tell us to see Salta before getting on the Catamaran.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBOT0VT_ilsbdgE3hWU6icb3V2TgIPdONYrkppDGOfoQwKf2Bq0Ebk3BHcFPh4eOlENgxrVNVwck8Pm_blzeHuZZ__SVcfZbgLmQ0r9Qh_88RU0vVoIEvcPMsilff8XVIVK4sZzMxKE9k/s1600/20181202_181029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBOT0VT_ilsbdgE3hWU6icb3V2TgIPdONYrkppDGOfoQwKf2Bq0Ebk3BHcFPh4eOlENgxrVNVwck8Pm_blzeHuZZ__SVcfZbgLmQ0r9Qh_88RU0vVoIEvcPMsilff8XVIVK4sZzMxKE9k/s320/20181202_181029.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Puerto Natales</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgue3frs8Tm3z7DzaGXlmn2oTMq8FteGBxDSrP8PSnlcS81EHo-f4DhY9wFXMVP70kdCmApsjBbpnyNpJWXSUgvQtj-Bgw3wPotKDMCWG4obMX3E9Z7ojuV1TwEYFbSHswyahw1d4txt8I/s1600/TDP+11-30-2018+9-26-43+AM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgue3frs8Tm3z7DzaGXlmn2oTMq8FteGBxDSrP8PSnlcS81EHo-f4DhY9wFXMVP70kdCmApsjBbpnyNpJWXSUgvQtj-Bgw3wPotKDMCWG4obMX3E9Z7ojuV1TwEYFbSHswyahw1d4txt8I/s320/TDP+11-30-2018+9-26-43+AM.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Salta</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja1fgs1wQefX8_w3uhQFQ774M7SPWQS6tJfabpbeKEaNmWZ649guCphIKolMVuj3fGkFKIfcydHDTFxquUO7lo5UTheqzk1yKbUMz7wBw5ShvD-DMlE9JRu6zjj2z0EmDFLSeNGjvTsk8/s1600/TDP+11-30-2018+9-25-19+AM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1600" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja1fgs1wQefX8_w3uhQFQ774M7SPWQS6tJfabpbeKEaNmWZ649guCphIKolMVuj3fGkFKIfcydHDTFxquUO7lo5UTheqzk1yKbUMz7wBw5ShvD-DMlE9JRu6zjj2z0EmDFLSeNGjvTsk8/s320/TDP+11-30-2018+9-25-19+AM.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWqM1e_VI3Jehr1AGkZnrwu7fRYhzYH1Afnup_nzs3kp-lINeqHplhCLJK-yo01OsoenAa9bKVvlvY85neGzcH8dTAMXCpBdU8ygjIpI3zEjmjvCSxMPtCcWPnjn52Sv1GACv6Zxk53mA/s1600/TDP+11-30-2018+9-25-08+AM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1201" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWqM1e_VI3Jehr1AGkZnrwu7fRYhzYH1Afnup_nzs3kp-lINeqHplhCLJK-yo01OsoenAa9bKVvlvY85neGzcH8dTAMXCpBdU8ygjIpI3zEjmjvCSxMPtCcWPnjn52Sv1GACv6Zxk53mA/s320/TDP+11-30-2018+9-25-08+AM.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBEXem_RdTaqmqlB1UjVbOlZiAFYYhnRMn5CCDpXdKxsu0hjiA2oRNhdnN7OqiJDhHI_Dl6tTR2RV9J1wGhvlvGPzSkOJbyhu0HX3ol9ODre3euS_g7_es6PXx5JKyTiBFIVEBIjb9I7M/s1600/TDP+11-30-2018+11-27-07+AM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBEXem_RdTaqmqlB1UjVbOlZiAFYYhnRMn5CCDpXdKxsu0hjiA2oRNhdnN7OqiJDhHI_Dl6tTR2RV9J1wGhvlvGPzSkOJbyhu0HX3ol9ODre3euS_g7_es6PXx5JKyTiBFIVEBIjb9I7M/s320/TDP+11-30-2018+11-27-07+AM.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from the catamaran to Lake Pehoe</td></tr>
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The briefer also told us to triple-waterproof our stuff, but don’t worry about getting wet and muddy because you will anyway. In particular, don't do anything stupid (i.e., jump to a boulder and miss) because you're avoiding putting your feet in the water or mud. Expect a crowded trail; if you were counting on a remote wilderness experience, you’ll be disappointed.<br />
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We didn't get a crowded trail, perhaps because of our odd itinerary. and we didn't get much rain (except our last night), but boy did we get wind. Our first stretch was from Paine Grande to Refugio Grey, and it was a wind tunnel. It was all we could do to keep going, and not get blown into the lake.<br />
Even the landscape is windblown.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhszIpctk2oZBtWLIO_tYPwst0T4Mt45R6C7yqBMMJG_D0Mcl8EF4eQo5xpOoVULJ6bSwcjKa65NB0qsbrYxPBR6wsM_ka9vSdUEKd-P985Pkpup3ja4NNvV0EIUN1PWB0yTYtJEGYtbA0/s1600/20181130_182229.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhszIpctk2oZBtWLIO_tYPwst0T4Mt45R6C7yqBMMJG_D0Mcl8EF4eQo5xpOoVULJ6bSwcjKa65NB0qsbrYxPBR6wsM_ka9vSdUEKd-P985Pkpup3ja4NNvV0EIUN1PWB0yTYtJEGYtbA0/s320/20181130_182229.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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<div>
The standard trek has you going up to Refugio Grey and calling it a day; we went up and back, about nine miles each way. The advantage, though, was that we didn’t have to carry our packs with us since we were sleeping back where we started. We pretty much had dinner and collapsed; I’d wisely packed Nyquil, and I used it to refrain from waking up my roommates with coughing. The refugio dinners were universally tasty, wholesome, and
nutritionally balanced. We power-barred lunch, which was appropriate (there
aren’t a lot of good places to stop for a longer meal on the trail, and your
dream picnic will merely blow away). But it was nice to get in, after a day of trekking, to a prepared,
hot meal. I balked at the price when booking, but I knew it was worth it
when I saw what we were getting (and that they nailed the special-meal
request), especially in light of what it takes to get food out to Torres del
Paine. Breakfast definitely wouldn’t have been worth the price, or the wait. We
could take off as early as we wanted to, while the breakfasters were still
waiting in line.</div>
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The next morning we set off for our second day, which would take us through the Valle Frances to the Mirador Britannico and back, and onward to Refugio Cuernos. We left our packs at Campamento Italiano for the uphill hike to Britannico; it
was hard enough to haul our packs from Italiano to Cuernos (we’d originally
wanted to stop in Frances, but it was sold out, which is just as well because
Sunday was hard enough from the farther-along Cuernos). </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDIFH2twDWJjpUJpYb26YOQmwtfPOa1PZm5sxyoSovMkndT1YqIE-W3BtceoOPTfkInVL1YViYjQ-asWQON0AQ1GDUS_iD2o3BeI-hMqwxoakySA-yS3dfPoL_ryqiuB7nKdx0qJcGRqE/s1600/20181202_175406.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="703" data-original-width="1600" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDIFH2twDWJjpUJpYb26YOQmwtfPOa1PZm5sxyoSovMkndT1YqIE-W3BtceoOPTfkInVL1YViYjQ-asWQON0AQ1GDUS_iD2o3BeI-hMqwxoakySA-yS3dfPoL_ryqiuB7nKdx0qJcGRqE/s320/20181202_175406.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW5ZpJsaGnSDbNhsyn0Zs70D1zUoP0ItErSHbLFGX9j_zqbymPlcKa8rSXGrh4PvtHlIo08lL83ve0qXolnmqIvHzWzcY3pjfVUPQaWrQFvpLFxtq3OLmjQkhXtBMRPKEXAfr4isgcQrA/s1600/20181202_174227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW5ZpJsaGnSDbNhsyn0Zs70D1zUoP0ItErSHbLFGX9j_zqbymPlcKa8rSXGrh4PvtHlIo08lL83ve0qXolnmqIvHzWzcY3pjfVUPQaWrQFvpLFxtq3OLmjQkhXtBMRPKEXAfr4isgcQrA/s320/20181202_174227.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from Britannico</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYm028-hT_-0cFYOsci3bxRqi2VWibRcK_jnbdeoHRAKYNBRFsDmKoyZt7HtEsXkKNnrh_EQeV3VvSHtz9L-q612x5WQ9TPmzfwFeD0EEkZyEYTDfiV2ylj1oab8iwO1HrfCPAqp-kkIQ/s1600/20181202_174248.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYm028-hT_-0cFYOsci3bxRqi2VWibRcK_jnbdeoHRAKYNBRFsDmKoyZt7HtEsXkKNnrh_EQeV3VvSHtz9L-q612x5WQ9TPmzfwFeD0EEkZyEYTDfiV2ylj1oab8iwO1HrfCPAqp-kkIQ/s320/20181202_174248.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW_1vtKSynniKA4V73Ckb2CcUfOw8OTHjtH2ouxXtrTp4b_2rnnLgvFotbDWiAicSiEujEgKEKP-qI3hF9Odb12o-q4uy8QattAnj7Awya13mkYIdHxg_0rxY1uH-mMq4Y4vrnKGjrJsI/s1600/20181202_173818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW_1vtKSynniKA4V73Ckb2CcUfOw8OTHjtH2ouxXtrTp4b_2rnnLgvFotbDWiAicSiEujEgKEKP-qI3hF9Odb12o-q4uy8QattAnj7Awya13mkYIdHxg_0rxY1uH-mMq4Y4vrnKGjrJsI/s320/20181202_173818.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLTTOuAl9_rId4tOKbhpY7wE-sAJ0NGar188EFmlOMUHbKx9yBdkVGqUl5r8m96iDrYyx18tDjqn1zDMvcLRbP3A0zyUbza7aRixFFHlR51-Ch-Xi6TII7N2Vvf8nhl_hZ0vLlie7RtTI/s1600/TDP+12-1-2018+1-55-20+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLTTOuAl9_rId4tOKbhpY7wE-sAJ0NGar188EFmlOMUHbKx9yBdkVGqUl5r8m96iDrYyx18tDjqn1zDMvcLRbP3A0zyUbza7aRixFFHlR51-Ch-Xi6TII7N2Vvf8nhl_hZ0vLlie7RtTI/s320/TDP+12-1-2018+1-55-20+PM.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view on the way down from Britannico</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkRwFxqVsjLi5LiFI1064pPd_3sMzD56gNQ8t5nQd5H-U9Om4O0YUIj9ADyoXrRjDSu-zUeOaZsWCXZSkLB37OxIsC6HYVs2U4mQnPz0_ck-XAgxmpXSmg0QwRj6CbzqjmpAA4o0eX18k/s1600/20181202_173748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkRwFxqVsjLi5LiFI1064pPd_3sMzD56gNQ8t5nQd5H-U9Om4O0YUIj9ADyoXrRjDSu-zUeOaZsWCXZSkLB37OxIsC6HYVs2U4mQnPz0_ck-XAgxmpXSmg0QwRj6CbzqjmpAA4o0eX18k/s320/20181202_173748.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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As pained and laden as we were, we remained in awe, and we always stopped to marvel. What separates us from the animals is not—as Clarice says in Steel Magnolias—the ability to accessorize, but the way our drive for exploration and beauty can overpower our animal drive for comfort.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWIY_mhXmBVx5UoZS5jAxA7qPmehTxYCSdAEI4lrCNDbK3XaOBS7YsSWwq6hcgaITv8nWefedAmDViYeP4EKxSb2llsfRvksma33sOL041hFxp24zvc8zvZg2pvmM2EgAPNYV3Pd3i-Dc/s1600/TDP+12-1-2018+3-45-50+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWIY_mhXmBVx5UoZS5jAxA7qPmehTxYCSdAEI4lrCNDbK3XaOBS7YsSWwq6hcgaITv8nWefedAmDViYeP4EKxSb2llsfRvksma33sOL041hFxp24zvc8zvZg2pvmM2EgAPNYV3Pd3i-Dc/s320/TDP+12-1-2018+3-45-50+PM.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The birds were happy to pose for us.</td></tr>
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<br />
Cuernos was in a beautiful spot, and unlike the night before, the weather was perfect. We crashed just after dinner.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKFXEFJqvgX_cJZisGsEBfI5vZirF0VqBaIbzbw75FWF9KI-LdlFdeLWL-P9Rm7_rjX3wptDwggWJgTBsFDzhjXOP_MRYby5W7oDd2P7idv9crpkcZLK4ESEavNW8GthpWEiXSc0T5Yo8/s1600/20181202_172543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKFXEFJqvgX_cJZisGsEBfI5vZirF0VqBaIbzbw75FWF9KI-LdlFdeLWL-P9Rm7_rjX3wptDwggWJgTBsFDzhjXOP_MRYby5W7oDd2P7idv9crpkcZLK4ESEavNW8GthpWEiXSc0T5Yo8/s320/20181202_172543.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from the dining room of the refugio</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6zOossTsI69ZX903XYJPTmp1U739ekL2HYAnfnDkUXj3dyrMsbQylk9j-mZFp4T1pRZ4BzEcmb502H71Z5l76cZiZmpZxwoFdTiSv4zcly6Uk1ASNROIv2UVcLZIVGpgOKiuOk5Ld5Hw/s1600/20181202_172237.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="778" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6zOossTsI69ZX903XYJPTmp1U739ekL2HYAnfnDkUXj3dyrMsbQylk9j-mZFp4T1pRZ4BzEcmb502H71Z5l76cZiZmpZxwoFdTiSv4zcly6Uk1ASNROIv2UVcLZIVGpgOKiuOk5Ld5Hw/s320/20181202_172237.jpg" width="155" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our tent under the Cuernos</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div>
We slept poorly and woke up for what we thought would be an easier day; after all, we'd be hiking almost half as many miles as the previous two days, albeit with our packs on us the whole time. Well, those ten or so miles took a lot of out of us. </div>
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<div>
We got to Refugio Chileno exhausted. Jason tried to nap; I edited my photos. We had a lovely dinner
and looked forward to the coup de grâce the next morning: the Torres
themselves. We even considered getting up early to get to catch them at
sunrise.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Except the sun didn’t rise. It rained all night and it was
pouring it down when I woke up. I panicked: what if we couldn’t even make it to
the Torres?? I’d thought on the way to the Mirador Britannico that the trail
would be simply unsafe in the rain. We chatted with a couple who were taking their time through the park. They’d gone up to the Torres the
day before and were planning on going again. They suggested we wait until noon
when things cleared up, but we didn’t have until noon (we had a 2:30pm bus to
catch at the base of the park). Jason said if we were going to go, we’d better
go right away, so at 7:15am or so, we set off in the cold rain. It gradually
warmed up, and the rain gradually let up, but the fog wasn’t clearing. We might
make it to the Torres, but would we see them? Jason wondered aloud whether it
was even worth it. I thought we were so close, we may as well go and see
*something.* Even a square foot of Torres was better than none. Besides, what else were we going
to do? “Sit by the fire,” he said. But I know him, and bitch as he may, he’s as
unlikely as I am to choose comfort over Torres. So on we went, seemingly the
only people on the trail (I’d seen a couple leave not too long before us, so I
knew either the trail was open or others were defying the closure).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was a beautiful walk in the woods leading up to the steep
path to the Torres. The woods cleared to a lot of boulders. Luckily, though originally to my chagrin, I’d left my trekking poles in the refugio, and it was
better not to have them to be better able to negotiate the boulders. In a way,
the damp sand/dirt was firmer than it might have been if dry. Julia, the
briefer at Erratic Rock, had told us the story of a man who tried to jump from
rock to rock instead of just walking through the water (there were a lot of
streams on the trail) and ended up leaving the park without his front teeth. I
was emphatically determined to leave with every tooth I’d come in with, and
that determination was with me throughout the trek. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were approaching the top, hoping for the fog to lift, as
a Scottish couple was coming down from the Torres. They said, “it’s worth it.”
“Even in this??” I asked? They said yes, it was <i>atmospheric.</i> So on we went, later past another couple who said
nothing and then a couple we recognized from the refugio who also told us, with
no solicitation, that it was worth it. Well, then. On we went, until we came to
a lake—wait, there was a lake?? How did we not know there was a lake? And a
glacier (yawn) or two. And the Torres, partially obscured by fog. We didn’t get
the sunlit view, but we got the foggy Torres entirely to ourselves. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
We lingered a bit—we made good time—but once we’d had our
fill and realized the fog wasn’t going anywhere anytime soon, started to head
down. </div>
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We had a ways to go, though mostly downhill, to get to the bus. We picked
up our packs and headed down—at first through more up than either of us wanted
to see. We ran into a group who asked us where the next stream was for them to
get water. The water in the park is glacier water—pure and snowy—and whereas
there are streams from which to collect it, they were nowhere near one. I told
them Refugio Chileno wasn’t too far and felt a bit bad for them; they were
probably counting on streams at every turn. It was getting very warm (though
the Torres were still shrouded in fog). Finally when we got down to the base of
the park, they came out for us. </div>
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We took what we could get and got on the bus
back to Puerto Natales, where we checked in for <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/chilean-patagonia-fiords-from-navimag.html">the ferry</a> and set out in search
of dinner before collecting the rest of our crap, which we’d left at the hostel
with a note on it (no one was there when we had to check out and catch the bus
to the park; another group was frantically looking for help to call a cab, but
no hotel staff was to be found). We had to hope it would be there (I’d miss
that iPad) and it was.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-27717574072376713402018-12-22T16:09:00.002-05:002018-12-30T09:31:01.626-05:00Argentinian Patagonia: Cerro Fitz Roy<div class="MsoNormal">
“There’s no such thing as natural beauty” </div>
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–Dolly Parton, via "Steel Magnolias"<o:p></o:p></div>
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From <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/argentinian-patagonia-calafate-and.html">the glacier,</a> we returned to Calafate for what turned out to be an unfortunate lunch and drove off onward to Chalten. The scenery did not disappoint, and for the
most part, ours was the only car on the road.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLM4FVgRFH3_o_XmOxDR18XY_htWzB-7upbdITu95nrrHR4ey4pAziqXfKLtBkYzRCIOfDC6YSEL5CTduwUQztOnRBAk3-EcS_GytDop1xSRXsJqd6RQtGTD8dzTsFTKpc63CPEmQkeOs/s1600/20181202_202814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLM4FVgRFH3_o_XmOxDR18XY_htWzB-7upbdITu95nrrHR4ey4pAziqXfKLtBkYzRCIOfDC6YSEL5CTduwUQztOnRBAk3-EcS_GytDop1xSRXsJqd6RQtGTD8dzTsFTKpc63CPEmQkeOs/s320/20181202_202814.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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You’d be surprised at how many people skip Chalten and Cerro Fitz Roy. Perhaps they think they wouldn’t see anything they didn’t see in Torres del Paine, but they’d be wrong. The town itself was interesting. Whereas Calafate struck me as the Banff of the southern hemisphere, Chalten felt distinctly South American. There was a street full of trekkers' hostels and pubs, but there were also real domiciles. We checked into our B&B and set off to take care of some important business, and then came to Curcuma for dinner. Curcuma is a vegan place that grows a lot of its own food.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYSRsh65L8WJntHlTWZt8Id22DOWJ0WRfwX4G5gscaKhwU_nwuJmGQ0SaXWo1jK2zTFOD6X9cEkRpPcONr11KuVdzU_02UJCvEWbPX8xGCtq6jAmGYDtDQjeZ9d0FV4g7QipXQu248y0g/s1600/Chalten+11-26-2018+7-23-49+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1201" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYSRsh65L8WJntHlTWZt8Id22DOWJ0WRfwX4G5gscaKhwU_nwuJmGQ0SaXWo1jK2zTFOD6X9cEkRpPcONr11KuVdzU_02UJCvEWbPX8xGCtq6jAmGYDtDQjeZ9d0FV4g7QipXQu248y0g/s320/Chalten+11-26-2018+7-23-49+PM.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhCqFbv_HQctWDWPAfO7AGQ-IPkTsetcZKtmuMHFn02TXeyLix83u-8aZFszKBD31aGmIzYeMU8F7T-haCahHS6W6fcgN0a9RPM_Xb0a2dUHBfbRSsUFyXFxt-1AwCBrz616Mh81NO5nY/s1600/20181126_202150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="778" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhCqFbv_HQctWDWPAfO7AGQ-IPkTsetcZKtmuMHFn02TXeyLix83u-8aZFszKBD31aGmIzYeMU8F7T-haCahHS6W6fcgN0a9RPM_Xb0a2dUHBfbRSsUFyXFxt-1AwCBrz616Mh81NO5nY/s320/20181126_202150.jpg" width="155" /></a></div>
We had a delicious cashew-cheese pizza on a buckwheat crust, and ordered packed lunches for our hike the next day. They were the envy of the other hikers lunching at the top of the Laguna de los Tres trail, whose packed lunches were the more typical jamon-y-queso on white bread. Ours gave us the nutrition and energy we needed to keep going.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp09OZB3JHlWNAhsXcExvrI1u-_I9BZcVxiHmWs5KKnUJaxt7-ihGDVXL6gYWkzgdR1R4wydSFYiY9hggmv3GlzzS7F1CwYJQKrRa-exSgtflZ1w8Aa8rnOrhl3CjhdcG11qLud_vj4cA/s1600/20181126_203311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp09OZB3JHlWNAhsXcExvrI1u-_I9BZcVxiHmWs5KKnUJaxt7-ihGDVXL6gYWkzgdR1R4wydSFYiY9hggmv3GlzzS7F1CwYJQKrRa-exSgtflZ1w8Aa8rnOrhl3CjhdcG11qLud_vj4cA/s320/20181126_203311.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
After dinner, we bought a bottle of wine at a tiny drug store, and drank it out of what we had, which in my case was a vitamin container. A cold was coming on, undeterred by the zinc that had come in the container (and had been relocated to a ziploc).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOP6IUgYDt4LUaP6CE2xI6zTdjjid0gMk_OWul-cvCBDH_GhQ7Hecy1zQE8W7oLt3vUtyoF9XcTCc8PZ8QUXhMBqz5EYzvAaR5Xve-EAFLTaVSjT8Q5gsRN_cpcAzwrqvaavU8psnTo68/s1600/20181126_221303.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="509" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOP6IUgYDt4LUaP6CE2xI6zTdjjid0gMk_OWul-cvCBDH_GhQ7Hecy1zQE8W7oLt3vUtyoF9XcTCc8PZ8QUXhMBqz5EYzvAaR5Xve-EAFLTaVSjT8Q5gsRN_cpcAzwrqvaavU8psnTo68/s320/20181126_221303.jpg" width="101" /></a></div>
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Our two different hikes to Cerro Fitz Roy were worth everything they took out of us—all the pain in the knees and ankles from so many steep inclines. That said, I’m glad we did them first; after the W, I’d have been inclined to check myself into a spa rather than subject myself to additional hiking. I don’t know what I was thinking when I signed us up for a hundred miles of hiking in a week (with one day’s break). I mean, I do know what I was thinking… and we did it… but it sure hurt. Here are the views from the Laguna de los Tres trail.</div>
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The incline at the top was brutal--we were practically going straight up. And then down, which, as I've mentioned, is hell on the joints. I’m not sure we were ready to do it all again the next day (somewhat less steep trail) but we did. Our respective bodies reacted the same way—or rather, we anthropomorphized their reactions similarly: at first, they balked, and then they came around. “I thought we were done with this… but, okay, fine, if this is what we’re doing, we’re doing it.” The start of the Loma del Pliegue Tumbado trail was pretty reasonable, but we were already spent from the previous day's hike.</div>
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When we got to what we thought was the top, we realized that the very top would entail a very steep incline.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN8m_U9iDDyOVxgUKRV6xTqJ1vQ2ylfUpa3hcmSJkJJczl5-zWWaMSlnx1m3FQjl7SiUz8LjX0s09QLg9cBNmzkC-GqCF3m3fSbcE1bdJRxwh2Z81lNNwm1FSyNg7jCGbN2E1u5grpYKc/s1600/20181202_182717.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="778" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN8m_U9iDDyOVxgUKRV6xTqJ1vQ2ylfUpa3hcmSJkJJczl5-zWWaMSlnx1m3FQjl7SiUz8LjX0s09QLg9cBNmzkC-GqCF3m3fSbcE1bdJRxwh2Z81lNNwm1FSyNg7jCGbN2E1u5grpYKc/s320/20181202_182717.jpg" width="155" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, that's how steep it was at the top.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I was inclined (no pun intended) to skip it; we had to drive back to Calafate in time to return the car by 7pm and I was worn out. But Jason wanted to try it, so we did. By the time he decided to turn around, I found it easier to keep going up than go down. Until I got to the snow. Which I could quite possibly lose my grip on and fall down the mountain. A nice Belgian-American couple was also grappling with the snow, and told me to hook my feet into the steps they made. With a deep breath at every precarious step, I stuck my feet in the snow and made it to the top. The view at the top was worth it.<br />
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We enjoyed the relative flatness of the way down.<br />
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As we drove back to Calafate, the peak we'd come so close to made itself known in our mirrors.<br />
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Lago Argentina was coming out to greet us as we approached Calafate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1hOt68Gk0rkor9NCeVwuL9AxYahE_VORfkqsRUhbU_FusA1HHmEhQUAWUjnM7VwdNfMB5hafAtIbWQneBlEpCdfc-PkRiYOYbqNFs1VZZzzl-2ir4d1xdFlL1ARuBsaiV5Bx298ugMFk/s1600/20181202_181950.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="658" data-original-width="1600" height="131" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1hOt68Gk0rkor9NCeVwuL9AxYahE_VORfkqsRUhbU_FusA1HHmEhQUAWUjnM7VwdNfMB5hafAtIbWQneBlEpCdfc-PkRiYOYbqNFs1VZZzzl-2ir4d1xdFlL1ARuBsaiV5Bx298ugMFk/s320/20181202_181950.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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We made it in more than enough time to drop our stuff off, return the car, and have an early-for-Argentina dinner. The next morning, we had a very early bus to Chile, where <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/chilean-patagonia-tierra-del-paine.html">Torres del Paine</a> awaited us.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-89984289705374988152018-12-22T15:32:00.000-05:002018-12-30T09:27:14.987-05:00Argentinian Patagonia: Calafate and Perito Moreno Glacier<div class="MsoNormal">
From the plane we looked out at <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/tierra-del-fuego.html">Tierra del Fuego</a> and then Patagonia—miles and miles of uninhabited hills and the occasional body of water. Before the trip, a friend of mine told me that Patagonia was good for getting a sense of your place in the world. I thought, don't worry, I can manage to be self-absorbed anywhere.</div>
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We boarded our flight cranky and hungry; the only food for sale at the airport was a small, $5 bag of chips, so we dug into our supply of granola bars, already sick of them. We were weary and wary. One of the many things that we anticipated could go wrong was not having a car in Calafate. The buses were not an option for our very compressed itinerary; if the car (or cars) had fallen through, we’d be in for some expensive private drivers. Latish on a Sunday is not an ideal time to rent a car in the tiny Calafate airport, and we weren’t sure we could do it, but Localiza apparently keeps its stall there open if there’s a late reservation. Localiza also has terrible, terrible reviews. As a backup, we’d booked another car for Monday morning (but we’d have lost time waiting for the place to open).<br />
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Upon landing, I waited for our luggage while Jason went to
see if we had a car. As everyone else’s luggage emerged, I tried to gauge
whether Jason was successfully filling out car paperwork or if he just couldn’t
get back into the baggage claim area. I started to fret about my backpack (I
had been very prepared to conquer Buenos Aires in the event of lost luggage,
with enough clothes for a few days in my carry-on pack, but I’d become
complacent because how do you lose bags between two tiny airports). Finally, mine
came out... but Jason’s didn’t. An airport official came to tell me that all the
bags were out, and pointed me to a dude to talk to in case one was missing. But
I didn’t have Jason’s luggage tag, and he couldn’t get back in. I started to
make my way over there when his bag finally emerged, to my enormous relief. I
was even more relieved when I saw him signing papers at the Localiza counter.
Localiza “upgraded” us to a ridiculous, banged up pickup truck, but we were in
no position to complain. We headed into town, checked in to our B&B and
headed straight to dinner. At 10pm, it was still light and entire families
were just being seated for dinner.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRI8fi9vuyc6qfp_yKyzgYzHMk-A8GCP1JqVQlXYCKzdDJcmL7pvwn5fNT6WwRpXlBnkVHVvllbQsRtOoaD9fTgsJgrwQCAc9xri0OXaqly4YccJ0CxnqigbqblHlkWpcPd2q_uk4Vn9Q/s1600/20181125_214855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="778" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRI8fi9vuyc6qfp_yKyzgYzHMk-A8GCP1JqVQlXYCKzdDJcmL7pvwn5fNT6WwRpXlBnkVHVvllbQsRtOoaD9fTgsJgrwQCAc9xri0OXaqly4YccJ0CxnqigbqblHlkWpcPd2q_uk4Vn9Q/s320/20181125_214855.jpg" width="155" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was after 10pm</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We wined and dined, and turned in later than we'd have liked ahead of our early-morning outing to Perito Moreno Glacier.</div>
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We said goodbye to the glacier and left for Chalten for views of <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/argentinian-patagonia-cerro-fitz-roy.html">Cerro Fitz Roy</a>.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-47946228326939741902018-12-22T15:17:00.002-05:002018-12-30T09:21:13.519-05:00Tierra del Fuego<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Tierra del Fuego was a detour that we made the right choice to make. Ushuaia can be dismissed as unworthy or reduced to a starting point for cruises to Antarctica. Kiera (who later dropped out of the trip) voted to include it, and Jay, who likes his extremes (eg., southernmost city in the world), was in. I myself was not blasée to the idea of the end of the earth.</div>
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I popped into the tourist info place upon arrival in Ushuaia and got a list of the various Beagle Channel cruises. I was also pointed to the private bus companies (a few people in a stall). I hoped to make it out to Laguna Esmerelda, but it was not to be. There was some kind of futbol game on account of which certain buses weren't running. I was negotiating with the bus “company” when someone else with the same destination in mind showed up. They wouldn’t take us to the Laguna, but now that there were two of us they were willing to
catch us up to the another bus that had just left for Tierra del Fuego National
Park. We were in. They gave us trail maps and suggested one for the
four hours we’d have in the park before the last bus back. They also suggested we
hike together, even though you can’t really get lost. The guy, it turned out,
was Russian (living in Germany) and was thrilled to have someone to talk to in
Russian. I was happy to have a companion for the afternoon.<br />
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We set off along the lake<br />
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Bordered on the other side by woods<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjUNOKrHNpkWp6rHxufThzjM5CVCyc8gKi-6j7YcGvllru27Cj9IreAsAgllWJas9N_gM1T1eniYRyuSVAR9zF9eK-fz4zsH-VANY1tr2OJmVpmGL7GVfdPHEUSmt_6WqN_yeJi2cL_Nk/s1600/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-24-2018+3-01-59+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjUNOKrHNpkWp6rHxufThzjM5CVCyc8gKi-6j7YcGvllru27Cj9IreAsAgllWJas9N_gM1T1eniYRyuSVAR9zF9eK-fz4zsH-VANY1tr2OJmVpmGL7GVfdPHEUSmt_6WqN_yeJi2cL_Nk/s320/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-24-2018+3-01-59+PM.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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in which we met a woodpecker.</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_lpYV7dJzAvNbLbviOsdvmj94VcfeSrikzGvrBjL_x9KRGrWUacchD2Lac6ZHCbCIs-b3VSmnmu6cHbE3ihH56EEwxNU5pXOi1CO6BkH4l0CGPNAEw2ScnilGmmBod0E-LjN2_apeYt0/s1600/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-24-2018+4-17-18+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_lpYV7dJzAvNbLbviOsdvmj94VcfeSrikzGvrBjL_x9KRGrWUacchD2Lac6ZHCbCIs-b3VSmnmu6cHbE3ihH56EEwxNU5pXOi1CO6BkH4l0CGPNAEw2ScnilGmmBod0E-LjN2_apeYt0/s320/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-24-2018+4-17-18+PM.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
and some other birds<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3QWS91Di1nYdudDX-AO4SP6xSw1ZLGmx6AxuuyON6Y8lJUXBS6b-mHkQEnU1tQApfijWevhyphenhyphenJVdgpKsbr8it9Q_b6o-PzdnOOlFFy9cb3C9AVlO-B_N1oXcOTO4q18fo-EKnGkRrnab4/s1600/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-24-2018+2-39-04+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3QWS91Di1nYdudDX-AO4SP6xSw1ZLGmx6AxuuyON6Y8lJUXBS6b-mHkQEnU1tQApfijWevhyphenhyphenJVdgpKsbr8it9Q_b6o-PzdnOOlFFy9cb3C9AVlO-B_N1oXcOTO4q18fo-EKnGkRrnab4/s320/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-24-2018+2-39-04+PM.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
until we hit the Chilean border<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMUO2axz8EquaRnj0YCj9rUgL9tWgNuSdgzmaG1vwCphAqAyMfyVx5N9fCoQ5CsUsTfgPfdzRfb-z3L02BSxrZe2WyCH6k-Pzm3XcARbsV2vLkCuGPvBBNzaopaD5LSOFp7D70uWoR_EA/s1600/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-24-2018+3-26-14+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMUO2axz8EquaRnj0YCj9rUgL9tWgNuSdgzmaG1vwCphAqAyMfyVx5N9fCoQ5CsUsTfgPfdzRfb-z3L02BSxrZe2WyCH6k-Pzm3XcARbsV2vLkCuGPvBBNzaopaD5LSOFp7D70uWoR_EA/s320/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-24-2018+3-26-14+PM.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
At which point we turned around and headed back to the lodge.<span style="text-align: center;"> </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzQMD-FsguOuuQ7l5QdiS2MdYYGIS4oHv0G0VPErh9jPoiiv1ow8WbI28ITx6tttYKwukMNLMDqkHGFYAJgRTOl0KqjJbRmrLuA5WQRIehOhIAVlLPKRVuucmgj_kzj7_pP5Hn5B6Rhnk/s1600/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-24-2018+4-49-01+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzQMD-FsguOuuQ7l5QdiS2MdYYGIS4oHv0G0VPErh9jPoiiv1ow8WbI28ITx6tttYKwukMNLMDqkHGFYAJgRTOl0KqjJbRmrLuA5WQRIehOhIAVlLPKRVuucmgj_kzj7_pP5Hn5B6Rhnk/s320/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-24-2018+4-49-01+PM.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This guy was pretty jaded about the scenery, having already done Torres del Paine, and noted that I was doing things in the right order. We walked along the lake, with snowcapped mountains on the other side, he shrugged and said “you can see that in Norway.” On the way back, I translated back and forth as he negotiated with the bus company to take him to the Laguna the next day and get him to the airport on time. I got back into town not long after Jason got in. We got a late-for-us, normal-for-Argentina dinner.<br />
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The next morning, we set off on a Beagle Channel cruise. The boat pulled away from the city and its snow-capped mountains.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit7IjimnbPv8fM53fcK_i34lAtMOB0nWK-VxxPU1vZw2fVH3f0ZSS2FDor0-qQCRwRYHvSzpngpIweQ5LRD6cBbTajC3aEtvXZ0-ADQBDsq55FS-P0h0do2EPepIhvKRHV_Eiu_7_19F8/s1600/20181125_173338.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1600" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit7IjimnbPv8fM53fcK_i34lAtMOB0nWK-VxxPU1vZw2fVH3f0ZSS2FDor0-qQCRwRYHvSzpngpIweQ5LRD6cBbTajC3aEtvXZ0-ADQBDsq55FS-P0h0do2EPepIhvKRHV_Eiu_7_19F8/s320/20181125_173338.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSNoGhTTge6otyVvxxqaig-hSp61DkUpEtuG0fWfuwWuzDW4eackTyKnZYs9HYa3O_Khyphenhyphen9f6zt0byYXAUISfGx1VVPMkwwBNJgCfBs26kO8HtYH182Y8PFUg9a9JVWobzgl_ncBh9aViY/s1600/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-25-2018+8-17-27+AM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSNoGhTTge6otyVvxxqaig-hSp61DkUpEtuG0fWfuwWuzDW4eackTyKnZYs9HYa3O_Khyphenhyphen9f6zt0byYXAUISfGx1VVPMkwwBNJgCfBs26kO8HtYH182Y8PFUg9a9JVWobzgl_ncBh9aViY/s320/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-25-2018+8-17-27+AM.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Toward some seals<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix7jkoCdNeahnUI_nvfe1Y8E9QNSPl3SC4r5agLpzZkskwHFf6V-Pzfdhul1VdwTkKEWV6XdmeTiGXVS2KhIDBNXF0xirQyDpoNDJlePD6JIzz7ERClmLPwv-x-6Bpkh5kFbMZQQKVUN0/s1600/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-25-2018+8-54-32+AM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix7jkoCdNeahnUI_nvfe1Y8E9QNSPl3SC4r5agLpzZkskwHFf6V-Pzfdhul1VdwTkKEWV6XdmeTiGXVS2KhIDBNXF0xirQyDpoNDJlePD6JIzz7ERClmLPwv-x-6Bpkh5kFbMZQQKVUN0/s320/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-25-2018+8-54-32+AM.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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and other birds.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilj1sHm2vWNKsdwBiWcwn2-CBiZsjEWe1TQyZLxyCmM7Z4b4u47DQm1yp4SF6TtvXxPzTrqEVY7gb-QKSJlNQmU19DkPUfIeD-RjNUcWwBSPJHSvYkz4Bf5yEBh-JxrX-39y9XJ1nkYmI/s1600/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-25-2018+9-00-07+AM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilj1sHm2vWNKsdwBiWcwn2-CBiZsjEWe1TQyZLxyCmM7Z4b4u47DQm1yp4SF6TtvXxPzTrqEVY7gb-QKSJlNQmU19DkPUfIeD-RjNUcWwBSPJHSvYkz4Bf5yEBh-JxrX-39y9XJ1nkYmI/s320/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-25-2018+9-00-07+AM.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi46zdERRtNGLt_3cB8iz1tbC7j4C1ikb556R19lbW4YtETe24p97VrWMNzQjAB4tIcyvQ6KV3dnr6zR94hvbVOra8sx7JzZNRPiLYRFreLC7UGH8MCsNI494N10tYAW07Wv2UuvJqlBP8/s1600/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-25-2018+11-06-16+AM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1201" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi46zdERRtNGLt_3cB8iz1tbC7j4C1ikb556R19lbW4YtETe24p97VrWMNzQjAB4tIcyvQ6KV3dnr6zR94hvbVOra8sx7JzZNRPiLYRFreLC7UGH8MCsNI494N10tYAW07Wv2UuvJqlBP8/s320/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-25-2018+11-06-16+AM.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrEUFn3I9AfJb6EM46KRDDU-eiK2RVnXUV8TrfQbHTGsBUt6IIpFfwnzysYRtu51ZHC5Q2N4lCW9FRhXu7H6jnJebwYysaSvHl-XlzAQVyeBPTuL0o_Yfp_cYKsRhawB4o3X4n-aqMMVE/s1600/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-25-2018+11-19-43+AM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrEUFn3I9AfJb6EM46KRDDU-eiK2RVnXUV8TrfQbHTGsBUt6IIpFfwnzysYRtu51ZHC5Q2N4lCW9FRhXu7H6jnJebwYysaSvHl-XlzAQVyeBPTuL0o_Yfp_cYKsRhawB4o3X4n-aqMMVE/s320/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-25-2018+11-19-43+AM.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magellanic penguin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6o_eXvSV8vL34HZ5ttr7LwScfKNDJWhWNym7hMy3tvxr6e-U2zUzocj5fb4UvU1NKuF3ixkO_I7sFmfHuhXHYsSi7tw89Kf_AvnrEGYrD3f2PUTaNEINrcMEyiTpPz-BhBN4knGMtgA/s1600/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-25-2018+11-19-36+AM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6o_eXvSV8vL34HZ5ttr7LwScfKNDJWhWNym7hMy3tvxr6e-U2zUzocj5fb4UvU1NKuF3ixkO_I7sFmfHuhXHYsSi7tw89Kf_AvnrEGYrD3f2PUTaNEINrcMEyiTpPz-BhBN4knGMtgA/s320/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-25-2018+11-19-36+AM.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gentoo penguins</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On the way back, the wind splashed water over the entire height of the boat. I took some pictures of the water flowing down along the glass.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBQpk4-71SgpTvFxg_YIDHTCIlrAp2_3Gw7zbKi671EQR7067doijxU03inL2LQk_pSGtNjgOC3QhbtbLjw6vdBJCj_ugRnp52N38VD5r65L5YoLTx5jBqzbyZ07_r7NmVNfukjWU1d9M/s1600/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-25-2018+1-28-08+PM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBQpk4-71SgpTvFxg_YIDHTCIlrAp2_3Gw7zbKi671EQR7067doijxU03inL2LQk_pSGtNjgOC3QhbtbLjw6vdBJCj_ugRnp52N38VD5r65L5YoLTx5jBqzbyZ07_r7NmVNfukjWU1d9M/s320/TDF+11-24-2018+2-21-28+PM+11-25-2018+1-28-08+PM.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Because of the fierce winds, the cruise took longer than expected. We got off, picked up our bags, and hoofed it to the airport for our hop to <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/argentinian-patagonia-calafate-and.html">Calafate</a>.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-50239785748814681062018-12-22T14:46:00.000-05:002018-12-30T08:52:11.772-05:00First stop, Buenos AiresI’d wanted to go to Buenos Aires <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">forever</i>. I had a lot of Argentinian professors in college, who fed
us plenty of Argentinian literature and cinema. I swooned over Borges, Cortázar, etc. When the captain announced that we’d arrived in Buenos Aires, I broke into a massive grin, hardly believing it, and into another when the Argentina
stamp landed on my passport.<br />
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I regret to confess that I didn’t make the most of the great city (I guess that’s fine, since it was my throwaway day in case of an airline fuck-up, and I'll be back once I figure out a way to get to Iguazu). I explored around my hotel before I could check in.<br />
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Later in the morning I showed up to a meet a walking tour that wasn’t
there, and I didn't have a working phone. I tried to get a SIM card, but the Argentinian government doesn’t make it easy (I did get a SIM but was unable to use it).<br />
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I ended up going to explore Recoleta on my own. The walk there was through a neat part of town.</div>
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Recoleta was fascinating; the pictures don’t do it justice.<br />
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From Recoleta, I popped into the Museo de Bellas Artes.<o:p></o:p><br />
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Then, back through town<br />
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to the Plaza de Mayo and San Telmo.<br />
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By the time I turned in—after all, I had an earlyish flight to Ushuaia the next morning—I’d logged 16 miles from all that walking across town.<br />
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Onward to <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/tierra-del-fuego.html">Tierra del Fuego</a>.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-31579650528492941152018-12-22T12:42:00.000-05:002018-12-30T08:45:32.741-05:00Patagonia: Prologue<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Now I'm running to the end of the earth.</blockquote>
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Everywhere I turn all the beauty just keeps shaking me.</blockquote>
--The Indigo Girls<br />
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Almost as soon as I got off <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2016/05/im-back-ramble-or-peru.html">the Inca Trail</a> more than two years ago, I wanted more: more Andes, more trekking, more all-encompassing, breathtaking beauty. I'm not the only one for whom the Inca Trail was the gateway drug to the W trek in Torres del Paine National Park. I'm also not the only one who thought it the W would be "easier"--as we were coming down the east end of the trail, we overheard a woman going up saying to her partner, "you told me this would be easier than Macchu Pichu!"<br />
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So once the urge was in place, we we had to make it happen? Who's <i>we</i>? As with the Peru trip, I wanted this badly enough that I was willing to do it on my own, even though that wasn't my preference. As I started drawing up the trip, I asked everyone who might be up for a lot of trekking. Kiera (<a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2017/06/the-balkans-how-we-planned-and-executed.html">see: Balkans</a>) was the first to come close to committing, but ended up dropping out. She nevertheless influenced the trajectory of the trip for the better by insisting on Tierra del Fuego (I was considering dropping it for more time in Patagonia itself) and pushing us into November rather than more crowded December. Jay was noncommittal for a while but ultimately dove in, so <i>we</i> ended up being Jason and I, later joined by Alex for a post-Patagonia week in and around Santiago.<br />
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It was a complicated trip, a heavy logistical lift—you can see that it didn’t happen immediately—and the reservations had to be made many months in advance. In fact, when we were reserving refugios in June, a couple had already sold out and we ended up in a pre-set tent our second night of the trek. I initially preferred tents, but Jay wanted the much pricier refugios (bunk beds), and he was right. The tent was uncomfortable and exposed us to the sounds of the late-night revelers.<br />
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As I plotted out potential itineraries, it seemed so complicated that I wanted to give up and sign onto a tour. There looked like a lot of inevitable backtracking and epic bus rides. It also looked like it would have to be very expensive, with or without a tour. The least unreasonable tours did not include any trekking, and being driven around national parks rather than trekking them would have made me lose my mind. I tried to get a sense of what the tours were giving you for so much of your money, and it turned out to be not much. They were essentially overpaying themselves for making the bookings, which we could more than handle ourselves. We debated which way to go and opted for Argentina-to-Chile because it was exorbitant to fly into Santiago on our dates.<br />
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I booked my flights for a reasonable amount of miles, and booked some internal ones that I later comped with points. Argentina had just recently walked away from a two-tiered flight-pricing system, and one no longer had to fly between countries to avoid getting ripped off. Lodging was pretty reasonable, and food wasn’t cheap, but it also wasn’t unaffordable. The ferry from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt as well as the newish airport in Calafate--which enabled us to fly rather than bus there--eliminated a lot of the backtracking we were worried about. The ferry was our single biggest expense, but it was a bargain compared to the cruises. Because we made most of the arrangements in May and early June, the trip was largely paid for by the time I had to redo the kitchen in July; it would’ve been irresponsible not to go.<br />
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It was a tight itinerary, without much give for delays or
other snags. I originally planned to leave on Black Friday but, in light of my experience
two years ago, opted to skip out on Thanksgiving to give American a full day to
get me to Buenos Aires before I’d have to catch a plane to Ushuaia on Saturday
morning (I even opted for a three-hour layover because the just-over-an-hour
one scared me). Jason couldn’t leave earlier and would meet me in Ushuaia
Saturday night. I’d have loved more than a day in Ushuaia, but we didn’t have a
day to spare: the ferry leaves Puerto Natales once a week on Mondays (well,
technically Tuesdays but you have to board on Monday), so we’d have to get off
the W the same Monday, meaning we’d have to get on on Friday and get everything
else in before that. We were entirely mentally prepared for glitches and
delays, and were pleasantly relieved when only insignificant ones--those that didn't upend the itinerary--came to pass.</div>
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Between the summer, when the trip got real—i.e., booked and paid for—and the run-up, I was largely distracted by work, by the kitchen, and even by the logistics themselves, I’d dreamt of this for so long that I couldn’t
believe it was real even when it was time to pack. I prepped the backpack (my REI disaster of a year ago ultimately yielded the best, most
ergonomic backpack for petite women) and stuffed my ultralight sleeping bag into its sack. I consulted my extensive packing lists—nothing could
be left to chance—and indeed I forgot nothing. The immediate run-up to the trip was my usual frantic: haircut the weekend before, followed by lots of cleaning and packing. A half-day before the trip, with the second half at the dentist and chiropractor and then more cleaning and packing, with only the last-minute stuff left to the day of the trip.</div>
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It was worth all the planning and preparation and scrambling, all the dreaming. </div>
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It started in <a href="https://clingingtomysanity.blogspot.com/2018/12/first-stop-buenos-aires.html">Buenos Aires</a>.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6058822168021182048.post-7155899118025396092018-11-17T22:26:00.001-05:002018-11-17T22:26:38.312-05:00It's not Vienna, but it brings back memoriesMy parents took me to Disney world once or twice. We drove down both times, stopping at cheap motels along the way, and stayed at cheap apartments a ways from the park. I had fun, especially when I went as a small child. I got my picture--a polaroid--taken with Minnie. The second time, I was a teenager (it was my mom, a friend, and his visiting teenage niece and nephew), but I don't remember being much more aware of the difference between our Disney adventure and that of the people who clearly weren't skimping. As a child (and teenager), a friend and I would hang out at the Disney Store, and elsewhere at Faneuil Hall, and at Copley Place. We enjoyed playing amid the ritz, window shopping and occasionally splurging on a loss-leaderesque, quasi-affordable souvenir. It was more wonder than aspiration. Then we outgrew it, at least the window shopping and longing for overpriced trinkets. I remained in awe of the business travelers at the hotels in and around Copley; I hoped to be like them when I grew up.<br />
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Last Sunday I flew down to Orlando for business and made my way to a chi-chi hotel. I could've gotten a cab reimbursed, but I opted for a SuperShuttle to save my employer some money. The first few rows of the shuttle were filled with tourists (and those staying a ways out). I looked at the guy in the back row with me--specifically, at the logo on his messenger bag--and knew he was going to the same conference. You know I don't generally start conversations with strangers, but the truth about introverts is that we buckle under small talk; we can handle real conversation. For the hour, hour-and-a-half long ride, we talked about a range of work-related issues. It was--especially to an introvert--a welcome sense of community. If anyone else in that van listened to us, they'd have hardly understood a word (that is not, if it needs to be said, a knock on them; merely a point of contrast: I was exactly where I needed to be). I don't know how I got to be someone who fit at the conference, who can hold my own with the technical people. I showed up feeling a bit of an impostor, but managed to connect with most of the people I talked to. By the end of the week, I was going to Disney Springs for dinner with my SuperShuttle buddy and his friends.<br />
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How I became that person is more of a wonder to me than how I became the person who gets dropped off at the chi-chi hotel close to Disney after the front rows of the shuttle empty out, at first at cheap motels and then mid-price hotels. All of them higher-end than what my family stayed at when I was a kid. I was always aware of it--every time I walked by a family staying at the hotel on their own dime, the kids dressed for Disney world--but not intrigued. I noticed the ornate granite counters and mother-of-pearl drawers but would have traded them for a better shower. I don't even prefer big, corporate hotels; I rarely choose them when I travel personally, and not just because of cost.<br />
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Some of the things we aspire to when we're younger are as satisfying as we think they'll be, every time; some become routine to the point we don't notice them anymore; some disappoint us. Some make us want even more.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14818414019805212840noreply@blogger.com0