I popped into the tourist info place upon arrival in Ushuaia and got a list of the various Beagle Channel cruises. I was also pointed to the private bus companies (a few people in a stall). I hoped to make it out to Laguna Esmerelda, but it was not to be. There was some kind of futbol game on account of which certain buses weren't running. I was negotiating with the bus “company” when someone else with the same destination in mind showed up. They wouldn’t take us to the Laguna, but now that there were two of us they were willing to catch us up to the another bus that had just left for Tierra del Fuego National Park. We were in. They gave us trail maps and suggested one for the four hours we’d have in the park before the last bus back. They also suggested we hike together, even though you can’t really get lost. The guy, it turned out, was Russian (living in Germany) and was thrilled to have someone to talk to in Russian. I was happy to have a companion for the afternoon.
Bordered on the other side by woods
and some other birds
until we hit the Chilean border
This guy was pretty jaded about the scenery, having already done Torres del Paine, and noted that I was doing things in the right order. We walked along the lake, with snowcapped mountains on the other side, he shrugged and said “you can see that in Norway.” On the way back, I translated back and forth as he negotiated with the bus company to take him to the Laguna the next day and get him to the airport on time. I got back into town not long after Jason got in. We got a late-for-us, normal-for-Argentina dinner.
The next morning, we set off on a Beagle Channel cruise. The boat pulled away from the city and its snow-capped mountains.