South Africa

When you see the Southern Cross for the first time
You understand now why you came this way

 --Crosby, Stills & Nash

This wasn't my first Southern Cross, but it hadn't lost its magic and never will. I couldn't get a picture of it, but I guess that's the other poignant thing about stars--you have to revel in them in the moment. This moment was perfect--perfect weather; the last time I saw mind-blowing stars was from the freezing-cold, glacier-level campsite on the Inca Trail. Just as stunning, much less comfortable. Much less suitable to presence, in the zen sense; it's hard to stay in the now when you're worried about losing your toes. But Saturday night was mild and perfect. We'd just past a family of elephants, including a couple of babies and a teenager or two, who were playing.

And then, a couple of hippos, who dunked their heads back under water. We stopped by the water and enjoyed some amarula.

Yes, I was off the vegan wagon in South Africa, mostly because I didn't have a choice and in this case because When in Rome. [Note: When in Rome didn't apply to bitlong, or kudu, or any other meat).

Kudu

***
How did I pull off two once-in-a-lifetime vacations within a few months of each other? I hadn't planned to, even though it averages out just fine given how long I'd gone between Indochina and Peru. I had to book Peru back in December (the Inca Trail, in particular) but couldn't really think about it until the spring, when things at work eased up. Just when they did--mid-March or so--I started planning for and looking forward to that trip, and a day or two into that, woke up to an email from Alex about a can't-miss South Africa package. Neither of us (nor Carrie) is package person, but this was one where they paid for things and mostly left you alone. I told Camille (my Peru travel companion) about it, who told her mom, who told two of her friends, and the next thing we knew, we (and Alex's bf) were a third of the tour, and it was awesome. 

***
They flew us to Capetown and left us alone for a few days, though we booked optional tours. I wish (1) we'd known to book Robben Island and (2) it had been sufficiently calm for kayaking, but Capetown is so stunning that I don't mind having reasons to go back. I'd go back just to watch the sun set.

The bays from Table Mountain

hyrax

And maybe to check out the peninsula on a clearer day; we couldn't see the lighthouse at all. Though the coast line itself was worth the drive.

This ostrich wishes it would clear up

Elands!

Simonstown

From there, we went to see the penguins.

 And then heading back toward Cape Town...

By way of the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens.

 And back toward Cape Town from there.

The next day, we toured some wineries, the first of which also had olive oils and a balsamic vinegar to taste (and they did not disappoint).

We visited three wineries (on different sides of the mountain). South African wines are out of this world.

I had a bit too much, having finished the samples of two friends who didn't drink. After we got back into town, I walked along the water to clear my head.

 Have I mentioned that I love watching the sun set over the ocean?

The next day, we left for Kruger National Park (by way of Johannesburg)...

 and saw some wildlife along the way.

At the park, where we night-safari'd under the stars (and day-safari'd the next day), we had an extraordinary day: we saw three wild dogs (which would be a hundredth of all the wild dogs in the Park, which is the size of a small country), a handful of lions, and even a couple of leopards (we didn't see the leapards well), among other things.

blurry picture of a wild dog

Sun rising over Kruger National Park

Mama and baby elephant crossing the road

Water buffalo crossing the road

hyena

Southern ground hornbill

Cape starling

This elephant stepped on a thorn. You could tell it hurt, but eventually (s)he got it out.

hippos!

a wartghog

beautiful giraffe

babboon!

After lunch, we looked for some cats. We saw some, but from far away. One of my favorite things about the first lions we hardly saw was the exchange between our guide and the one who'd called it in.

Ours: Why would someone do something like this??
Other: I told you it was a shit sighting. If you spotted your own lions you'd not have to rely on mine.

It was in a congenial tone and all in good fun. Our guide didn't fuck around; if he saw or heard something, he'd turn us around and speed toward it. One of the things I loved about the safari was the passion of the guides: they love the park and the animals, and they love sharing it with the rest of us. One thing I got out of South Africa as a whole was this enormous sense of pride for the country and a joy about sharing the country with visitors. But I digress.

A lion and lioness were chilling under a tree when an elephant in heat crossed the road and started walking toward them. Not without first checking out our ride, too see if he'd need to get it out of the way as well. Luckily for us, he didn't. Also luckily for us, the lion got up and we could see it better.

We later saw more lions, just chillin', and some other stuff.

lions!

a hippo and its reflection

vervet monkeys

another hyena

It was an altogether amazing way to spend the day. Afterward, we watched the sun set over the hotel and played on the trampoline (not in that order).

View on the way back to Johannesburg

We stopped in Pretoria on the way to the airport and saw lots of jacoranda trees and the statue of Nelson Mandela.

jacoranda

Nelson Mandela

Our guide attempted a very delicate balance that shouldn't have been needed, between explaining the history of South Africa (for which you have to talk about race) and staying apolitical. His bottom line was that the country had made great strides (though certainly not in terms of inequality or poverty alleviation).

On a lighter note, here's a cell tower that looks like a tree.

A cell tower made to look like a tree.

With that, I'll leave you and post later about anything else that comes to mind. My body thinks it's the middle of the night, so I'll bid you good night.